Lofoten

The magical mystical Lofoten Isles in the Norwegian Arctic. Broody dark peaks in the swirling mists, ever changing light creating dramatic vistas, laser beams from the sun turing the fiords to gold. Here we rediscovered the natural rhythm of life at Lofoten Ski Lodge under the fantastic hospitality of Seth, his wife Maren and team of guides and chefs.  We watched the sun rise over the Norwegian Sea, ate big breakfasts at a relaxed pace while choosing our dream adventure, skied from summit to sea, returned to the lodge for afternoon tea and waffles, shared the stoke with all the other excited skiers, took saunas and jumped into the sea, drank as much beer as we could afford, ate catch of the day at dinner, spent the evening talking in front of the fire, marvelled at the aurora borealis, fell asleep, woke up and did it all again.

Morning glory from the lodge

The aurora borealis

Michelle skiing the classic south couloir of Geitgallien down to the teepee in the lush afternoon light

The girls excited about the sun coming out

Cedric booting up Geitgallien

Minna and Michelle

Michelle on Geitgallien

Looking into Tollfjordvanet

Panorama from Hivgratinden – Geitgallien col

Minna, Michelle and Cedric

Michelle

Michelle and Minna heading into Juviktinden

Our high point on Juviktinden due to poorly bonded snow

The light show above the lodge

From Juviktinden I spied this zone 2 valleys deeper so after borrowing some tech tools from Northern Guides Guido Sami Modenius we went to check out these 3 500 m lines which were probably unskied. They dropped a further 150 m below the photo on the fan to the lake.

Climbing up to the ice step in the right hand line

Michelle arriving over the steep ice step

Boot packing the steep lower section of the couloir

On the boot pack in deep pow

Skiing after the upper narrows was perfect snow with the couloir providing visibility on this storm day

Deep powder but no where to hide from the slough

Faster skiing in the mid section where the left bank provided a safe zone from the slough

Last turns approaching the ice steps

I equalised a icy thread and a no.4 nut to abseil over the ice. With a little more snow it might be possible to hop onto the spine skiers left.

Michelle on the abseil.

Michelle bootpacking up to the next line

Climbing into the central line.

Michelle arriving over the small ice step

Deteriorating weather and light as we wallow up deep pow

At the col, the visibility was terrible and I was pleased to actually find the col

After popping out of the cloud the visibility for skiing became good

In the upper couloir

On the dividing spur sheltering from Michelle’s slough

Entering the lower couloir

Michelle threading her way through the choke into the lower line

Great skiing in the lower line

Deep pow in the lower line. I put in an a abolokov to abseil the lower ice step but it would be an easy jump in good visibility

On the abseil

Sunshine on the beach

Leaving the car to head into Breitinden / Stauren group

The approach has us skinning across fields, marsh, lakes, streams and boulder fields

Our line on Breitinden

Not so steep allowing us to skin but atmospheric

A little exposed here above the dividing spine, time to bootpack

 

Michelle and the view to the north

Topping out after cimbing a litle steep turf on the wind scoured col into the sun

Soaking up the rays after days of storm

Taking in the views – a perfect lunch spot

Panorama from Breitinden

Very narrow for 10 m

Wider here

No argument about the snow

Michelle in the upper and lower couloirs

Me in the lower line

Michelle in the lower line. The wall above would be beautiful to climb on

Exiting the couloir

Our line on Breitinden is the lower col just riht of centre photo

Owl strike!

Funky clouds as the sun goes down on the Straumnes peninsula

Someone arranged for the evening entertainment watching the light show

Our cabin by the sea

The beautiful bay at Kalle where the lodge is situated is surrounded by these lush peaks

Seth Hobby runs Norther Guides specialising in Lofoten, Greenland, Svalbarg

The view southwest across to the mountains on the mainland

Lofoten Ski Lodge

Michelle has a soft spot for white fluffy things and Seth’s dog was spoilt all week

Morning coffee at the lodge

Sunrise near Svolvaer

Looking south from Laupstad

The beaches at Morfjorden

Morning light on the mountains near Svolvaer

Looking over toward Litlmolla

The next day the weather was poor so we went to the 900 m SW couloir of Geitgallien

Nearing the top

No more snow as I reach a little col on the ridge, 900 m of couloir below

The cloud lifted and we were treated with creamy pow to the ocean

Me skiing

Our friendly Black Crows bar part time tender come guido – Mark

Fish are the staple diet and nothing is wasted – even the lamps are made from Cod (fish)

Cod heads drying on racks – they will be turned into stock cubes

A dark wild day at the beach with freezing rain, we almost died of hyperthermia walking 50 m from the car

Surfers getting swept on the rocks. Seeing this persuaded me these weren’t the right conditions for a novice like myself

Head leant forward and braced against the wind, the surfers strive to get back to their vans

Under attack

The sandy beaches way out west are beautiful

Michelle enjoying the sightseeing

Colourful village of Utakliev situated under the classic mountain Himmeltinden

The beach at Haukland

Sea urchins for sale

Sailing off on a fishing trip

Volkl Explosives – one of the good early wide skis

The picturesque village of Henningsvaer is worth a visit with the nearby Preston couloir

Cod racks in Henningsvaer

Typical wooden houses in Henningsvaer

Michelle and the everchanging afternoon light on Geitgallien South Couloir