The magnificent 25 m open book grey corner is the main feature of this route and packs a mighty punch. We rapped in and set up a belay at the base. Still in the shade it was at least ten degrees colder than the day before and suffering numb fingers and toes I had to resort to a yoyo before climbing the route cleanly.
The remaining pitches follow great finger / hand cracks near the left arete, (ignore the bolted slab).
A wonderful trip to climb the Cassin’s incredible 1937 route on the Piz Badile in the Bernina Alps – one of Europe’s 6 classic North Faces.
It was the first visit to this region for myself and regular partner for long alpine mission @claphamski. Despite that we made good time climbing the route in 5hrs30, with about 6 pitches and long periods of simul climbing. We abseiled down the north ridge and I will definitely be back to climb and guide this too.
The lovely Sasc Fura Refuge @sascfura gave us a warm welcome and made our stay very enjoyable.
We finished off the day with a celebratory pizza in Italy 🇮🇹 on the road back to Chamonix – after it it was James’ birthday.
A big thanks to @colleenmaclellan at Chamonix Sports Massage for working so hard to get the knots out my thigh muscles after so many hours riding enduro!
Ross Hewitt Guiding 