Les Courtes, North East Spur

Today was about just getting out for me. Its been an emotional period, I hadn’t skied for a couple of weeks, my back was untested after injury,  I wasn’t sure if the psyche was there for skiing big mountains…knowing the NE spur of the Courtes was in made it the obvious choice, nothing too hard or scary to try and regain the feel for it.

I was joined by Max, Tom and Dave although Dave had to turn back with binding issues.  We made steady progress climbing the face in the sunshine but as we arrived at the lower angled summit slopes, the sun moved off and the snow started to refreeze.  We called it a day and skied from there.

This is the fifth route I’ve skied on this mountain and I think the 11th time I’ve skied off Les Courtes. Truely a skiers playground.

Afterwards we watched Sami Haapasalmi and his Finnish friends ski the right hand finish of Col Aiguille Verte. Hats off for ticking one of the steepest sustained ice slopes in the Alps.

NE Spur Les CourtesNE Spur Les Courtes-6 NE Spur Les Courtes-26 NE Spur Les Courtes-48 NE Spur Les Courtes-64

Tom enjoying the refrozen crusty snow through this section.NE Spur Les Courtes-92

Tom having fun.NE Spur Les Courtes-105

Max enjoying good pow. NE Spur Les Courtes-117

Tom ripping it up.NE Spur Les Courtes-119

Max blasting to the bottom. NE Spur Les Courtes-132

The skiers are at half height. The bootpack is obvious. Steep.NE Spur Les Courtes-137 Can you spot the 4 skiers?NE Spur Les Courtes-141

Still looks steep from this angle!

See You in the Next Life My Old Friend

Paul V L-11

October 2007. Riva del Garda, Lake Garda, Italy. Morning coffee in the square.

Paul and I met at secondary school. In the beginning we occasionally paired on the rugby field as inside and outside centres. He was bigger and stronger so played on the inside, punching holes through the defence while I was the more agile sprinter waiting for the ball to be offloaded so I could run it in for the glory. It was the start of our life long friendship.

In our first year at school we were lucky to go on a ski trip to Italy. After a few days of hot spring sunshine many of the resorts closed for the year. That night it snowed a metre and the teachers gave us strict instructions that off-piste skiing was banned. We weren’t that familiar with the concept of off-piste,  Scotland had fences to hold the snow  which was seldom deep enough for grooming machines. You simply skied where the snow was. Back in Italy the trees beckoned and we soon got caught by a teacher up to our necks in the snow looking for a lost ski.  The lesson Paul learned from this was not that we disobeyed the teachers rules but he needed something bigger to be able to float on top of the deep snow.  Paul bought a snowboard straight after that trip and took the sport up with passion. That incident along with a few other mischevous misdemeanours would go on to define our friendship and adventures long into adulthood.

We grew up sharing the love of the outdoors through mountain biking, skiing and snowboarding. Adventures together throughout the Alps to as far as Alaska followed, but it was Chamonix that became Paul’s adopted home where he was able to leave behind all the mental baggage of modern life and express himself freely on skis or snowboard. He became legendary amongst his friends for his downhill speed and full commitment (going up hill was another story).

Paul was a true Gentleman and maintained a stanch respect of tradition that would often put me to shame.  The partnership between a Frenchman and a Scot was fitting, it mirrored the Auld Alliance agreement that had been honoured between our countries for Centuries. He had exceptional manners, a kind heart and all the time in the world to talk and listen to people from all walks of life. 

He left sooner than expected, I always thought I would go first and envisaged Paul with a greybeard enjoying Talisker’s fine single malt whisky in front of the fire. We had a pact to go easy so that we could heli ski the velvet powder in Alaska in our 60s once we could no longer get to the peaks under our own steam.

Paul had just decided to make a home in the mountains around Chamonix and was part of the tight knit community of mountain people. Here the people believe that the black birds (choughs) are the souls of dead mountaineers. I will always look out for him, soaring high in the sun above the summits and performing amazing arobatics.

Before he left he had a secret to share with me. Why does a google image search of Paul Van Lamsveerde come up with images of loads of beautiful women next to his profil picture? I wanted to know how you did that Paul.

paul van lamsveerde - Google Search

He left behind a wonderful family and many many friends around the World. My heart goes out to them all. The pain we all feel will gradually dissipate, I know he wants everyone to be happy. I will remember Paul with a smile and love him always. He was the brother I never had, my oldest friend. Thank you for the time you gave me.
Paul V L-17

2008. Rectiligne Couloir, Grands Montets with Louisa Marshall and Mel Cash.Paul V L-18

Exiting Rectiligne and flying.Paul V L-20

Helbronner, Italy.Paul V L-21The beautiful Aiguille Noire provides a stunning backdrop.Paul V L-19

Under the Helbronner cables.Paul V L-14

Paul excited at the prospect of the 1700 m vertical downhill. Monte Baldo, Lake Garda.Paul V L-15

Arms pumped by first bend, heart rate max, smelling blood, discs scorching, 40 minutes of down.
Paul V L-12

On the infamous 601 path from Monte Baldo. Slippery beach leaves over slimestones polished to a fine sheen by soldiers boots during the World Wars.

Paul V L-16Something you don’t expect to randomly come across. The highest babyfoot table in Europe. Summit of Monte Baldo circa 2700 m.Paul V L

Morzine 2003. Paul after an altercation with a fence post.Loic paying attention

Loic, Myself and Paul after a long day riding.
Paul V L-3Alaska 2007. Heli inboundPaul V L-2

Ski touring above Mount Eyak ski field, Cordova, Prince William Sound. Alaska
Paul V L-5Evening light, Ski Touring in Heney Range, CordovaPaul V L-9

Waiting on weather to fly. By now we had each gained a stone in weight from the enthusiastic American hospitality and lack of exercise.  Bored, irritable and over caffeinated. A dead arm contest usually burnt up some energy and time. Evan eventually pushed me through the bedroom wall which the repair cost the same as a day’s flying.

Paul V L-10Paul on the lower slopes heading up to the Heney’s, Cordova.

Choucas Aiguille du Midi

Salopar

After fighting the queues to get up the lift we were all psyched to get going on a big Midi day and making the most of the fine weather. Drew Tabke has some time off after winning the men’s FWT title and joined Dave Searle and myself. On the way down the arrete I started to feel some discomfort in my back and by time we arrived at the Cosmiques hut my back was seizing up quickly. After a handful of ibuprofen tablets it was time to push on and good skiing took us to the col at the top of the Salopar. By now I was feeling the pain standing still so Dave took over leading and the rope work. The snow was good but with the usual sharks teeth in there to snag the unwary and the straight line exit created sufficient speed to ruffle the ski pants.

Back at the Plan I had Dave kneeling on my chest and rotating my legs to try and unlock my back but the day had ended prematurely for me and it was time to download while the guys did a few more laps. At the car it took me about ten minutes to get my ski boots off. At one point I thought I would have to call Michelle to come get me as I was unsure I could drive home!

Hopefully its just a few down days for me.

aiguille_du_midi_Salopar

 

The normal Rond is shown by the red line with the Salopar, ‘heart of the Rond’ shown in orange.Salopard-5Salopard-21Salopard-26Salopard-37Salopard-42

So what do you do Drew? Well, I just won the Freeride World Tour.Salopard-45Salopard-46Salopard-50Salopard-63Salopard-80

Powder Pillows

Paul AKA The Sloth showed up in town for his pow hit last night. The forecast was for dust on crust so we surprised waking up this morning to find a few inches of snow. A quick run down the valley to pick up his Shiros and we were off to Grands Montets for some freeride.  A quick run down Lavancher on awsesome snow got the juices flowing and we met Philip, Rob and Fleur at the bottom. We joined them for a few runs in the Magic Forest which definitely lived up to its name today. My back was still bar tight after being desk bound, travelling and climbing this week and I started the day thinking a bit sneeze might have me hospitalised. After a couple of runs we started to feel it and had a few epic runs flat out thru the forrest hitting pillows, drops, jumps and trying our best not to hit each other at high speed. On one of the runs we came across a clearing that was like something out of a Canadian ski movie – a real pillow droppers heaven. I love days like this when you have zero expectations and they turn out oh so sweet. I was a bit jealous of Paul’s Shiros as they look more maneouverable than my katanas in the tight but hey ho will launch the kuros tomorrow. No photos today – no chance of stopping to take any!