Mer des Nuages

Dave, James and myself went up to Plan de l’Aiguille for an alpine route with a couple of objectives in mind. The drooling ice on Beyond Good and Evil had a strong draw so we went up for a look. The scorching evening sun kept temperatures high late on and a walk up to the base revealed lots of ice falling down. We decided to see what the temperature did overnight and found a huge flat boulder to get some kip in, but kinda resigned to go down in the morning. I dont think I’ve ever been so warm at a bivi and in the early hours we were treated to spectacular ‘Mer des Nuages’ illuminated by full moon, a good chance to take some photos. With no freeze, it was a pretty quick decision not to climb, and the first ascent of the year went to Perkins, Blakemore & Helliker team the following day. It looks really fun so get out and blast it while its there.

 

I’m Back!

I’m back. After an extended trip on a boat that stretched to almost 2 months, I was psyched to get back to the Valley for some autumnal mountain magic. That said, I was also filled with anxiety that I was out of shape, unacclimatised and out of tune with the mountains. The Youths were talking about Desmaisons and endurance link ups while I just need to get out an climb some pitches and get back into it.

Fresh snow lay waiting to be cleared on the Midi and it was a familiar feeling loosing a couple of hours of my life, standing in the tram queue, though still somewhat preferable to the standing in the tube with someone’s sweaty armpit in your face on route to a day of boredom.

Stepping out on the arête was somewhat disorientating with the snow blower being used to clear the platforms creating a localised blizzard. The transformation from the flat sea world to the alpine vertical playground  allowed gravity to make itself strongly felt as I took care going down the cham side of the arête. What would normally be a quick sprint to the Triangle was hard going as muscles pumped with lactic, a combination of the altitude and lack of use. Thoughts crept into my head of the mental battle ahead slogging back up to the Midi at the end of the day in the sun but there was fun to be had meantime.

James kicked off on the first pitch a quickly despatched a tasty pitch with grooves and flakes to wet the appetite. Dave then took up the challenge of a large open book corner. A tell tale sign of the battle ahead was the first metre of the walls coming out the corner had no lichen where a fat river of ice normally flows. James and myself got deep into conversation ignoring Youths continuous dialogue about how hard it was.  It all seemed fine seconding, that is if you are into laybacking of sloppy axe jams in a 3 inch verglassed offwide with crampons smeared on crystals. I have to concede to Dave that it probably felt right spicey out there on the lead and well done to that man! After the batism I was ready to get on the sharp end and enjoyed getting moving on a more straightforward pitch allowing me to enjoy the climbing without being terrified. I reckon this was my first adrenaline rush in 2 months and felt so good to be back in the playground, sharing the day with friends and soaking up the views.  It could have been a bit warmer though with a chilly wind making a nuisance of itself and making my glad I had my 6000s while the boys complained of cold feet. Romping back to the Midi didn’t feel that bad after all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rond

The day was forecast 40% sun but it didnt look too promising peeking out window from under the covers in my bed. Eventually my conscious starting playing on me for being lazy and we headed up the Midi with hope the forecast was right. The lifty on the bin said we were the first skiers of the day which was slightly surprising as this is Chamonix at the most exciting time of year for a skier and a bin had gone up before us.

Walking down the Arrete the mist started to part revealing a pristine sparkling wonderland with its new coat of pow. I never fail to feel a twinge of excitement going to ski on the Midi. Unlike a ski resort the Midi offers adventure, doubt, excitement (read sphincter twitching fear), risk and reward. You end up skiing in outrageous places – the stuff dreams are made of.

A guide was working on the arrete removing the fixed ropes and expressed concern that we were going skiing. Its not like I haven’t been up the Midi a 1000 times but I guess they have responsibility to warn people of the dangers given the number of inexperienced people that disappear up there questing of into the unknown. Maybe I just looked like a punter walking down rather than skiing. It does always make a little part of me question my decision making and that can be unsettling. I spent a few seconds thinking about it and off we went.

Anyway the Rond was getting better with every run and with a topping of 30 cm made for fast fluid skiing in fresh tracks. Bit by bit the North Facing stuff is coming into condition. Its a shame Grands Montets closed on Tuesday!

Aiguille du Midi West Couloir

Epic snow conditions in the West Couloir this week.  Deep consistent snow taking the angle off and especially appreciated especially for the huck over the lower icefall. Trenching our way up to the little col took a bit of effort with snow above head height but worth it in the end! It was especially sweet getting it done after waking up to snowfall outside, and then a small window with the Foehn coming in after and slamming it shut again.

My camera was malfunctioning for some weird reason that I cant figure out (glad I carried all that weight for nothing) so thanks to Luca Pandolfi and Dave Searle for their photos below. All unmarked photos are courtesy of Dave.

Skiing off the bottom of the Rond

Should have got the shovel out.

Ruck-sac off to hack at the snow mushroom.

Luca making the rap off the col into West Couloir

Luca charging

Approaching the choke. Some ice here.

Searler having it.

Me in the open couloir.

And again.

Dave looking good on the huck.

Carrying the SLR not conducive to jumping!

Lots of speed now.