Alaska 2009

For this trip we based ourselves in Cordova, ski touring on the Heney Range and flying with Points North on primo weather days in the Chugach. I was joined by Paul van Lamsveerde, Pete Benson and Evan Cameron.Alaska-1 Alaska-2 Alaska-3 Alaska-4 Alaska-5 Alaska-6 Alaska-7 Alaska-8 Alaska-9 Alaska-10 Alaska-11 Alaska-12 Alaska-13 Alaska-14 Alaska-15 Alaska-16 Alaska-17 Alaska-18 Alaska-19 Alaska-20 Alaska-21 Alaska-22 Alaska-23 Alaska-24 Alaska-25 Alaska-26 Alaska-27 Alaska-28 Alaska-29 Alaska-30 Alaska-31 Alaska-32 Alaska-33 Alaska-34 Alaska-35 Alaska-36 Alaska-37 Alaska-38 Alaska-39 Alaska-40 Alaska-41 Alaska-42 Alaska-43 Alaska-44 Alaska-45 Alaska-46

New Zealand 2006

For this trip I hooked up with my friend and fellow Scot, Evan Cameron, who was living in Dunedin at the time. We travelled all round the South Island climbing in the mountains, sailing the fiords, swimming in rivers, sleeping on beaches, surfing, bouldering, walking. He had dislocated his shoulder a week before I arrived and carried a vial of morphine everywhere and gave me strict instructions on how to put his shoulder back in should it pop again.

The most vivd memory is getting caught in a storm sailing in the Marlborough Sounds and the boat getting knocked flat every five minutes with the mast in the water. I don’t think the boat owners ever sailed in bad weather because there was nothing to secure the drawers and pans were soon flying as the hull rolled 90 degrees. In the middle of the night one of the sail’s securing ropes wore through and the roller jenny sail got ripped open and immediately shredded. The next day dawned beautiful and calm and another yacht sailed past looking at our battered and tattered boat. Terrifying.

New Zealand 2006-2

Bivi Site Below Malte Brune after Morraine Bashing up the Tasman Glacier
New Zealand 2006-3

The Remarkables New Zealand 2006-6 New Zealand 2006-7

The Lake at Queenstown from the RemarksNew Zealand 2006-8 New Zealand 2006-9

Traversing the Remarkables After a Multipitch Route New Zealand 2006-12 New Zealand 2006-13

Bouldering Near QueenstownNew Zealand 2006-14

A moments respite from the rain in our 1 man tent, Bevan Col, AspiringNew Zealand 2006-15 New Zealand 2006-16 New Zealand 2006-17

Camping Below AspiringNew Zealand 2006-18 New Zealand 2006-19 New Zealand 2006-20 New Zealand 2006-21 New Zealand 2006-22 New Zealand 2006-23 New Zealand 2006-24

On the summit of AspiringNew Zealand 2006-25 New Zealand 2006-26 New Zealand 2006-27 New Zealand 2006-28 New Zealand 2006-29

Descending Bevan Col in Heavy RainNew Zealand 2006-30 New Zealand 2006-31 New Zealand 2006-32 New Zealand 2006-33 New Zealand 2006-34 New Zealand 2006-35 New Zealand 2006-36 New Zealand 2006-37 New Zealand 2006-38 New Zealand 2006-39 New Zealand 2006-40 New Zealand 2006-41

West Coast Fury, Charleston CragsNew Zealand 2006-42 New Zealand 2006-43 Payne’s Ford – Sports Climbing and Swimming PoolsNew Zealand 2006-44 New Zealand 2006-47 New Zealand 2006-48

The calm before the storm, we spent the next night with the mast in the water every 5 minutesNew Zealand 2006-51 New Zealand 2006-53 New Zealand 2006-54 New Zealand 2006-55 New Zealand 2006-56 New Zealand 2006-57

Stunning Organ Pipes at Lover’s LeapNew Zealand 2006-58 New Zealand 2006-59 New Zealand 2006-60 New Zealand 2006-61 New Zealand 2006-63

The DarrensNew Zealand 2006-64 New Zealand 2006-65

Waiting for the rock to dry, DarrensNew Zealand 2006-66

Trying to avoid the seepageNew Zealand 2006-68

View West from Hommer TunnelNew Zealand 2006-69

Darrens RockNew Zealand 2006-70 New Zealand 2006-71 New Zealand 2006-72 Raining Again!New Zealand 2006-73

The ChasmNew Zealand 2006-74

When it rains, it poursNew Zealand 2006-75 New Zealand 2006-76 No Need to Wash Dishes, Just Put Them in the Rain OutsideNew Zealand 2006-77

Looking for Rock to Climb in the Jungle?New Zealand 2006-78

Mitre PeakNew Zealand 2006-81

Wye CreekNew Zealand 2006-82

The Weekly WashNew Zealand 2006-83 Old Faithful, 1.0 Litre Ford Laser Estate CarNew Zealand 2006-84

Siberia Flats, en Route to Mount AwfulNew Zealand 2006-85 New Zealand 2006-86 New Zealand 2006-87 New Zealand 2006-88 New Zealand 2006-89 New Zealand 2006-90

Long walk on to find wet rock followed by a longer walk outNew Zealand 2006-91 New Zealand 2006-92

Frisby at Flock HillNew Zealand 2006-95 New Zealand 2006-96 New Zealand 2006-97 New Zealand 2006-99 New Zealand 2006-101Christchurch PeninsulaNew Zealand 2006-102

Norway 2003

It would appear that Norway has more rock than it knows what to do with so they don’t mind putting a few bolts in. We spent some time around the Stavanger area visiting sports crags like Bersagel & Norland to climb and BBQ with the locals. I was some months into recovering from some Glandular Fever type virus I’d picked up from working in West Africa so chilling out in the sunshine was very welcome. Norway 2003-8Norway 2003-6Norway 2003-7Norway 2003Norway 2003-5Norway 2003-4Norway 2003-2

Sunday’s Stroll

Traverse of Noir John Minogue

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Its been a few years since I skied this line and its definitely one that has been significantly affected by glacial thinning making it much harder that the guide book rating of 4.3 Assez Diffcile 45 degrees for 50 m. I went back a month ago to try in in good powder conditions but the East wind was loading over the ridge where the sun meets the shadow in the photo.  As I moved towards the ridge things started to crack around me, propagating up the slope above me and releasing some slab material down onto my companions who were about 50 m behind me. No one fancied manning up to go over the blind convexity so it was time to go home.

With no new snow in Chamonix for weeks, I went back with John Minogue. This route is so blind as you start to ski over the convexity and the only thing you see is the glacier 500 m below. The glacial recession has continued and there is much more exposed rock at the choke where instead of rapping across ice on skis, we rapped over rock on crampons. Its pretty steep too, the glacial death ice is always at the back of your mind, there’s a strip of ice at the base of the route which I had to downclimb, and the crevasses look hungry. Apart from all that the views are amazing and the snow was good.

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