Alpine Summer Returns

We have had a couple of weeks of torrential rain and temperatures in single figures which has limited play to training sessions and even some dry tooling. All good for general fitness. Summer is now back with a vengeance and its looking good for a mountain hit tomorrow so I’m psyched. I’ll let you know how it goes.goat chaserIMG_20140701_150303 IMG_20140714_144302

Alaska 2009

For this trip we based ourselves in Cordova, ski touring on the Heney Range and flying with Points North on primo weather days in the Chugach. I was joined by Paul van Lamsveerde, Pete Benson and Evan Cameron.Alaska-1 Alaska-2 Alaska-3 Alaska-4 Alaska-5 Alaska-6 Alaska-7 Alaska-8 Alaska-9 Alaska-10 Alaska-11 Alaska-12 Alaska-13 Alaska-14 Alaska-15 Alaska-16 Alaska-17 Alaska-18 Alaska-19 Alaska-20 Alaska-21 Alaska-22 Alaska-23 Alaska-24 Alaska-25 Alaska-26 Alaska-27 Alaska-28 Alaska-29 Alaska-30 Alaska-31 Alaska-32 Alaska-33 Alaska-34 Alaska-35 Alaska-36 Alaska-37 Alaska-38 Alaska-39 Alaska-40 Alaska-41 Alaska-42 Alaska-43 Alaska-44 Alaska-45 Alaska-46

Alaska 2008 – Ruth Gorge

This was an amazing trip into the Ruth Gorge with the Benson twins and Nick Wallis. We were blessed with stable deep sluffy powder and enjoyed skiing in the Japanese couloir the West Face of Barille and some easier tours.  We built a large snowhouse which was large enough for the 4 of us and made for a civilised dining. At nights the Northern lights shown brightly with orange, reds and greens, although with -30C temps we didnt hang around outside the tent for long. also snuck a couple heli runs in, be rude not to in AK!Alaska 007

En route towards the Moose’s ToothAlaska 014 Alaska 018 Alaska 022 Alaska 027

Trenching up Japanese CouloirAlaska 035 Alaska 036

Rooster’s Comb Alaska 042

Getting steeper in Japanese CouloirAlaska 048 Alaska 057 Japanese CouloirIMG_0022

Orca Lodge, PNH CordovaIMG_0045 IMG_0091 IMG_0364

Kelly Gray looking after us
IMG_2108 IMG_2125

Our snowhouse in the Ruth GorgeIMG_2270 IMG_2544ed Pete1

Me skiing a run called 'happiness'. Photo: Pete Benson
Me skiing a run called ‘happiness’. Photo: Pete Benson
West Face Barille

Hunnadalen Norway 2007

Hunnadalen valley is situated a short drive from Stavanger in the southern tip of Norway and holds a lifetime’s worth of rock to climb. Pete Benson, Guy Robertson and myself flew from Aberdeen to Stavanger and hired a car for a few days climbing. Expat Nick Ashton kindly showed us a round for a few days and allowed us to sleep on his floor.  The locals had already picked off the pure ice routes but coming from a Scottish mixed background we were like kiddies in a candy store looking around at the potential for icy mixed climbing. The highlight of the trip was trying a 500 m gully system on the final day. Being with 2 mixed masters I decided that my share of the work would be the ice pitches. It turned out to be quite a route with 9 meaty pitches of Scottish VI & VII. Half way through the day it started to snow heavily and topping out in the dark we abseiled down a rock buttress to avoid the unstable snow that had built up. In the early hours we made the airport and had an hours sleep before flying back to Aberdeen and making it into the office for a day’s work. The route was called Ergopower since Pete had bought some cheap and nasty ergo tools on ebay which had him squeeling for traction on anything steep!Hunnadalen mixed climbing-2

The gully line of Ergopower, VII,7
Hunnadalen mixed climbing-11

The first ice pitchHunnadalen mixed climbing-12

A cave pitch took us passed the gigantic boulder at 1/3 height. Hunnadalen mixed climbing-13

Guy leading a bold icy mixed pitchHunnadalen mixed climbing-14

Pete belaying and ready to run down the gully to take in the slack if Guy fellHunnadalen mixed climbing-15

At the top of the icicleHunnadalen mixed climbing-17

Thin ice on the gully wall to pass the next stepHunnadalen mixed climbing-18

Snowing hard and arriving on thicker protectable ice, phew!
Hunnadalen mixed climbing-8

The guys looking at a bolted M venueHunnadalen mixed climbing-7

Rock and ice everywhereHunnadalen mixed climbing-6Hunnadalen mixed climbing-3

New Zealand 2006

For this trip I hooked up with my friend and fellow Scot, Evan Cameron, who was living in Dunedin at the time. We travelled all round the South Island climbing in the mountains, sailing the fiords, swimming in rivers, sleeping on beaches, surfing, bouldering, walking. He had dislocated his shoulder a week before I arrived and carried a vial of morphine everywhere and gave me strict instructions on how to put his shoulder back in should it pop again.

The most vivd memory is getting caught in a storm sailing in the Marlborough Sounds and the boat getting knocked flat every five minutes with the mast in the water. I don’t think the boat owners ever sailed in bad weather because there was nothing to secure the drawers and pans were soon flying as the hull rolled 90 degrees. In the middle of the night one of the sail’s securing ropes wore through and the roller jenny sail got ripped open and immediately shredded. The next day dawned beautiful and calm and another yacht sailed past looking at our battered and tattered boat. Terrifying.

New Zealand 2006-2

Bivi Site Below Malte Brune after Morraine Bashing up the Tasman Glacier
New Zealand 2006-3

The Remarkables New Zealand 2006-6 New Zealand 2006-7

The Lake at Queenstown from the RemarksNew Zealand 2006-8 New Zealand 2006-9

Traversing the Remarkables After a Multipitch Route New Zealand 2006-12 New Zealand 2006-13

Bouldering Near QueenstownNew Zealand 2006-14

A moments respite from the rain in our 1 man tent, Bevan Col, AspiringNew Zealand 2006-15 New Zealand 2006-16 New Zealand 2006-17

Camping Below AspiringNew Zealand 2006-18 New Zealand 2006-19 New Zealand 2006-20 New Zealand 2006-21 New Zealand 2006-22 New Zealand 2006-23 New Zealand 2006-24

On the summit of AspiringNew Zealand 2006-25 New Zealand 2006-26 New Zealand 2006-27 New Zealand 2006-28 New Zealand 2006-29

Descending Bevan Col in Heavy RainNew Zealand 2006-30 New Zealand 2006-31 New Zealand 2006-32 New Zealand 2006-33 New Zealand 2006-34 New Zealand 2006-35 New Zealand 2006-36 New Zealand 2006-37 New Zealand 2006-38 New Zealand 2006-39 New Zealand 2006-40 New Zealand 2006-41

West Coast Fury, Charleston CragsNew Zealand 2006-42 New Zealand 2006-43 Payne’s Ford – Sports Climbing and Swimming PoolsNew Zealand 2006-44 New Zealand 2006-47 New Zealand 2006-48

The calm before the storm, we spent the next night with the mast in the water every 5 minutesNew Zealand 2006-51 New Zealand 2006-53 New Zealand 2006-54 New Zealand 2006-55 New Zealand 2006-56 New Zealand 2006-57

Stunning Organ Pipes at Lover’s LeapNew Zealand 2006-58 New Zealand 2006-59 New Zealand 2006-60 New Zealand 2006-61 New Zealand 2006-63

The DarrensNew Zealand 2006-64 New Zealand 2006-65

Waiting for the rock to dry, DarrensNew Zealand 2006-66

Trying to avoid the seepageNew Zealand 2006-68

View West from Hommer TunnelNew Zealand 2006-69

Darrens RockNew Zealand 2006-70 New Zealand 2006-71 New Zealand 2006-72 Raining Again!New Zealand 2006-73

The ChasmNew Zealand 2006-74

When it rains, it poursNew Zealand 2006-75 New Zealand 2006-76 No Need to Wash Dishes, Just Put Them in the Rain OutsideNew Zealand 2006-77

Looking for Rock to Climb in the Jungle?New Zealand 2006-78

Mitre PeakNew Zealand 2006-81

Wye CreekNew Zealand 2006-82

The Weekly WashNew Zealand 2006-83 Old Faithful, 1.0 Litre Ford Laser Estate CarNew Zealand 2006-84

Siberia Flats, en Route to Mount AwfulNew Zealand 2006-85 New Zealand 2006-86 New Zealand 2006-87 New Zealand 2006-88 New Zealand 2006-89 New Zealand 2006-90

Long walk on to find wet rock followed by a longer walk outNew Zealand 2006-91 New Zealand 2006-92

Frisby at Flock HillNew Zealand 2006-95 New Zealand 2006-96 New Zealand 2006-97 New Zealand 2006-99 New Zealand 2006-101Christchurch PeninsulaNew Zealand 2006-102