While I was whiling away the time this autumn from the discomfort of long hours behind a desk, something amazing was happening out there in the real world. Social media alerted me to incredible mixed climbing conditions the Alps as icy tentacles started to drooling down the faces providing relatively easy passage for all the mixed masters. Fomo was kicking in pretty badly and I managed to engineer my way out of work for a week in September and another in October. Success on the Michto-Polish route on the Jorasses in September brought confidence in off the couch fitness and ability to use a pair of tools after a year or two off. It allowed the mind to explode with all the possibilities and adventures out there given the right partner, enough time and the weather. I eagerly looked forward to the October holiday knowing one big route would calm the mind from the boredom of work during the run into the ski season. Conditions just seemed to get better and the weather was looking great. The week before heading out there was a minor blip with some days off training due to a cold. Arriving in Chamonix I took advantage of the Brevent being open to get some lift assisted mountain biking i.e. downhill. But then I started to feel tired, like wtf, am I imagining this? I thought it was probably psychosomatic but not completely willing to try my theory out on a big face, we decided to go for a quick hit on Chere Couloir. A friend had recently solo’d it and reckoned the serac was not threatening. And so Sandy and myself started romping up the neve plastered line and I was feeling ok, not great but ok. Then boom, out of nowhere my body went cold and into shutdown mode like I had flu. I put on ever stitch of clothing from my bag and continued to climb in it all the way to the top. Just as well we weren’t on the Grand Pillier D’Angle! I Guess it pays to listen to your body no matter how much you want to do something. 6 weeks later and I think I have finally got rid of what was bugging me, just in time for the snow to arrive. And the serac is mildly threatening, enough to make us feel relieved once we had past it!
Tag: Chamonix Mont Blanc
Camping Time
This week we Dave Searle and myself went back to the Miage Glacier under Mont Blanc’s Himalayan sized West Face with the idea to have a semi-rest day and camp on day 1 and then get and early start and ski a line mid-morning before it got too hot. I had some expedition kit to test out so this provided the perfect opportunity. 


At the foot of the Miage. We soon got bored of load carrying in the heat and set up camp.
Chilling out in the evening.
My touring set up this season.
Our line for the day on looker’s right
Dave at the start of the 1100 m bootpack
The shrund was bottomless and we roped up
The snow deteriorated due to being worked by spindrift so we skied the good stuff






Friday’s Freeride
I headed into the neighbour’s back garden the other day with the usual suspects; Liz Daley (armed with her perma-stoke), Davide de Masi and Dave Searle. Our efforts were well rewarded and we found exceptional rip-able powder waiting for us in this long hallway. A fantastic day which was ended with a beer ontop of a mountain in the sun.

All quiet, the cirque to ourselves

Let the dance begin
Perma-stoke
Searler, Liz and de Masi wishing they had spanking paddles (snow plates) in the deep pow
Liz Daley
Davide de Masi superstylin
Our line
Heading to the bar for a well earned cold beer
Another Sick Sunny Powder Day
Couturier-Whymper on La Verte
Aiguille Verte on the far right with the 1000 m Couturier Couloir descending direct from the summit.
The sunny side of Aiguille Verte, Whymper Couloir descends right of the summit.





Nearing the top of the Couloir and the end of the neve with black ice and seracs looming.

We threaded the seracs along a ramp in the sun above the rock.
Mikko on the Verte for the first time.
Almost feeling Himalayan due to the cold, with 40 kph wind we were glad to get off the austere north side and into the sun.
Panorama Aiguille Leschaux to Mont Blanc


Mont Blanc and the Chamonix Aiguilles
The wind tugged at our skis along the exposed ridge.



















































































