Chere Couloir – North Face of Aiguille du Midi

While I was whiling away the time this autumn from the discomfort of long hours behind a desk, something amazing was happening out there in the real world. Social media alerted me to incredible mixed climbing conditions the Alps as icy tentacles started to drooling down the faces providing relatively easy passage for all the mixed masters. Fomo was kicking in pretty badly and I managed to engineer my way out of work for a week in September and another in October. Success on the Michto-Polish route on the Jorasses in September brought confidence in off the couch fitness and ability to use a pair of tools after a year or two off. It allowed the mind to explode with all the possibilities and adventures out there given the right partner, enough time and the weather. I eagerly looked forward to the October holiday knowing one big route would calm the mind from the boredom of work during the run into the ski season. Conditions just seemed to get better and the weather was looking great. The week before heading out there was a minor blip with some days off training due to a cold. Arriving in Chamonix I took advantage of the Brevent being open to get some lift assisted mountain biking i.e. downhill. But then I started to feel tired, like wtf, am I imagining this? I thought it was probably psychosomatic but not completely willing to try my theory out on a big face, we decided to go for a quick hit on Chere Couloir. A friend had recently solo’d it and reckoned the serac was not threatening. And so Sandy and myself started romping up the neve plastered line and I was feeling ok, not great but ok. Then boom, out of nowhere my body went cold and into shutdown mode like I had flu. I put on ever stitch of clothing from my bag and continued to climb in it all the way to the top. Just as well we weren’t on the Grand Pillier D’Angle! I Guess it pays to listen to your body no matter how much you want to do something. 6 weeks later and I think I have finally got rid of what was bugging me, just in time for the snow to arrive. And the serac is mildly threatening, enough to make us feel relieved once we had past it!

Chere couloir Ross Hewitt Chere couloir Sandy Simpson 2 Chere couloir Sandy Simpson

Let the Ski Season Begin

 

I managed to sneak away from work for a few days in the hope of some mixed North Face climbing adventures but the weather over the weekend was miserable. As it cleared on Monday the mountains looked plastered and it seemed like I could combine an acclimatisation trip with a few turns.  De Masi was keen so we headed up the Midi with no real expectations. As we descended the arrete it was clear that there was more than a dusting. I put on my skis for the first time in a couple of months and looked down the south side which was looking tempting but slightly loaded. A brief conversation followed along the lines of:

“Hey Dave, think it will stick?”

‘Dunno, what do you think?’

“I haven’t formed an opinion yet. I’m going to wait for those guys to walk past the bottom so they don’t get sluffed. The shrund on the left is gaping open, what is it like straight down?”

‘Dunno.’

“Eyes on then.”

First turn into the pow made me remember why I love skiing so much. Leaning over hard into smooth silky velvet…  After that we went down Gros Rognan for a bit and cut back to the Valley Blanche and skinned into Cirque Maudit for a look around before skinning back to the Midi. That last bit felt like a slog with no acclimatisation and I was happy to get down the lift quickly!
Ross Hewitt Aiguille du Midi-4Ross Hewitt Aiguille du Midi-3Ross Hewitt Aiguille du Midi-5Ross Hewitt Aiguille du Midi-6Ross Hewitt Aiguille du Midi-1Ross Hewitt Aiguille du Midi-2

Return to Rock

After a quick warm up on Mont Oreb’s ‘l’Ete Indiane to get back into things, we spent 3 back to back days last week escaping the 35 degree valley heat on the perfect golden granite on South Face of Midi 3842 m climbing Kolmann (6a+), Contamine (7a) and Jules de Chez Smith (6b). With cooler temperatures this week we were able to hit the fingery Zone at Gietroz and sample some of its impeccable gneiss.20140611_091503 20140613_114605 20140613_095650 20140613_085059 20140613_074230 20140612_103907#1 20140612_102747 20140611_120613 20140611_110814 20140611_110745#1 20140611_110432 20140611_103543 20140611_093837Ramche Hyper-12Ramche Hyper-7

Another Sick Sunny Powder Day

Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle

Liz Daley and Dave Searle enjoying and easy start to the dayTrappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-2 Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-3

On our way up with the Te Crew boys

Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-4

Dave getting used to a camera I lent him.

Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-5

Dave killing it, about 2000 m more to comeTrappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-6Liz realising its primo
Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-7 Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-8 Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-9

Dave SearleTrappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-10

Liz is in thereTrappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-11 Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-12

Liz killing itTrappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-13

A little tree adventure and then perhaps last of the pillow lines for this winter

Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-14 Trappier Liz Daley Dave Searle-15Lush spring walk down to down

The Devil’s Spires

I had been wanting to ski the Macho Couloir off Col Diable for a while now but finding a partner who was free was proving challenging. My Black Crows team mate Tom Grant arrived back in Chamonix with his usual high level of psych and he was willing to go do whatever was good. It all looked set, the only minor setback was Tom being kicked out of the first cable car for missing a payment on his season ski pass. With that sorted he managed to jump the queue and caught me up as I ambled down the valley blanche scoping out conditions en route. Good job he did catch me up as it was super deep and we had to trench our way up sustained 50 degree slopes to the col, arriving there pretty tired mid afternoon after 5-6 hours of uphill. The ski down was exceptional with overhead blower and the 125 under foot Noctas eating it up, we just had to take care not to get sluffed off the face. Amazing conditions and just as well, this route is steep, exposed and technical. I loved it. High on the ridge amongst the spires staring down at the Grand  and Petit Capucins hundreds of metres below. I bet it would feel really steep in spring snow. Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom GrantCol Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-2Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-3

178 Nocta and PLUM YakCol Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-4Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-5 Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-7 Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-6Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-8Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-9Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-10

Tom negotiating the lower rocks. 

Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-11

Under the Grand Capucin

Col Diable Macho Couloir Tom Grant-12The route climbs behind the left hand spires onto the serac bench then up the headwall behind where our tracks can be seen.