A Photo Essay- 1st Descents Down Under

With it starting to feel autumnal here in North Wales and seeing all the ski porn flooding in from the southern hemisphere, I’ve started to dream about skiing again and am looking forward to some sensual turns in the powder. Here is a short photo essay about trip Tom Grant and myself did last October to New Zealand’s Southern Alps.  We skied 18 days out of a 25 day trip, losing 2 days to lost bags and 1 to a blown camper van engine. The highlights were skiing on the east face of Mt Cook and first descents on Elie de Beaumont’s west face and Darwin’s south face.

A big thanks to Evan and Mandy Cameron, Mel Cash & Stefan Austin, Shane Orchard, Cam Mulvey and Beau Fredlund for your hospitality, beta and good times.

Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 1Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 2Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 3Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 4Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 5Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 6Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 7Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 8Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 9Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 10Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 11Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 12Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 13Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 14Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 15Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 16Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 17Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 18Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 19Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 20Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 21Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 22Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 23Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 25Skiwiland flickbook ver 0.2 24

 

Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screw Review

In the mountaineering and ski touring World weight means everything. Its simple physics that the amount of energy to elevate an object is equal to mass x gravity x height raised, hence why we are all obsessed with shaving a 100 grams off one bit of kit or another. For example, in theory to raise 1 kg 1000 m in elevation take 1 x 9.81 x 1000 = 9801 J or 9.81 kJ and that does not account for significant the additional frictional losses from walking or skinning or wind. So it can be seen that carrying one kilogram less will easily result in the energy from an extra bar or two being saved, plus the added benefit of moving faster and more easily and saving the accumulated strain on your neck, shoulders and spine.

In the last 2-3 years we have seen big advances in ski touring boots and skis. Right now a pair of boots weighing 2.4 kgs skis 90% as well as a 4 kg pair of boots did 3 years ago and the same is true with freeride touring skis loosing 1 kg/pair over the last few years – thats a 25% weight reduction.

Our attention to our kit should not stop there, every item of your gear clothing, hardnesses and equipment should be scrutinised for pack size, weight, is it overkill, can I make do with something lighter? This goes for clothing, harnesses, backpacks, crampons, axes, ropes, etc. As an engineer the downside of reducing the weight of an item is the fatigue life is reduced, and for the majority of us fatigue from every day use is the governing factor in the design life of an object. For those of you who are heavy on kit then the overall strength of an item will be the governing factor and maybe going light is not right for you.

Petzl have done an amazing job with their  Laser Speed Light ice screws reducing the weight from 192 g for a steel 17 cm screw to 101 g for the ‘light’ version, thats a weight saving of 91 g per screw. Thats 1.1 kg saving for 12 screws in a cascade rack! So how is this possible?  Ice screws have been around in the steel form for decades with the main innovation being the introduction of winder handles for quick placement and removal. About 20 years ago there was a short period where titanium made and entry on the scene with larger diameter tubes but these were difficult to sharpen and poor quality control of materials from Russia often meant these were unreliable. Petzl have taken a step back and have engineered a screw with an aluminium hanger and tube with hard steel teeth bonded to the tube to cut through glacial ice. Petzl technical spec states there is unlimited lifetime on laser speed light so there are extremely  confident in the new design.

So far I have used mine for climbing alpine faces where neve and ice are present or for ski touring where I’m most likely to use them for an anchor on glacial ice or for creating an abalakov v-thread anchor to abseil from. For ski touring its brilliant as 99% of the ice screw is just a precaution for glacial travel and rarely used in anger and I have not noticed any difference in performance between the ‘light’ and the steel versions.

Price wise they are only a few euro more than the steel version so make sure you check them out.

DSC05058

17 cm with bue winder handle and 21 cm with the green handle. 13 cm are also available

DSC05059

The steel teeth on the laser speed light

DSC05056

17 cm laser speed light on the scales at 101 g

DSC05057

17 cm steel laser speed on the scales at 192 g. Thats 91 g heavier than the light.

DSC04857

Equalised double abolokov in the shaded cooler ice backed up by the ice screw.

12752116_10207394017039963_1466449635_o

Skiing in wild places with exposure after coming through an icy mixed section

DSC_9004gearing-up

September 2015. Me racking up under the Grandes Jorasses photo : Ben Tibbetts

DSC_9404jorasses-ross

Heading up the initial ice field on Michto – Polish, Grandes Jorasses. Photo Ben Tibbetts

DSC_9117jorasses-ross

Its starting to get steeper now. Photo Ben Tibbetts

DSC_9296jorasses-ross

Shacking out on a small bulge. Photo Ben Tibbetts

Grandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-5

Ben Tibbetts enjoying the sunshine on the summit ridge

Into the Mountains

Fantastic conditions continued in Cham and for day 7 on the trot we swapped freeride kit for touring skis and headed up to the Tacul to ski the shoulder. On the Midi, Minna and myself bumped into Morgan Salen and Isaac DVT and we teamed up to share the trail breaking and enjoy a ski run together for the first time. The snow was perfect both on the ascent and descent – we were able to ski all the way up the 40 degree entry couloir and it was a good short day to rest the legs from all the freeride. Thanks for the photos Morgan!

 DSC04270

Skinning in the entry couloir

P9220022

Sunshine and shadow

DSC04286

Isaac and Minna with Pt Yield in the background

DSC04298

Morgan at the top of the shoulder

P9220039

Me psyched to ski some cold, sloughy, powder.

P9220041

Me heading off down the ridge.

DSC04393

Morgan Salen on the first shot

DSC04465

Isaac enjoying the powder

DSC04485

Morgan finding the snow acceptable and to his liking

P9220071

Minna heading into the 3rd shotDSC04544

Morgan railing a turn in the sun with Minna below

DSC04560

Happy days, Morgan with Minna abseiling

DSC04569

Minna on the abseil

P9220089

Me and the Corvus Freebird

DSC04608

Minna on the lowers

DSC04579

Morgan starting off down the lowers

P9220117

Me enjoying the exceptional snow

P9220119

This lower section provides some very fast skiing

P9220120

The Corvus Freebird showing its pedigree at speed

P9220121

And on

P9220123

And on

P9220124

And on

P9220125

And on

P9220126

Been skiing more than 10 seconds now!

P9220128

Nearly there

After the active rest day I managed to talk Mikko and Jesper into coming for a long day to the Breche Nonne Eveque in the Charpoura basin. You can’t beat skiing below all the spires next to the Dru and its one of my favourite spots. I was last there in 2013 with Michelle behind Rosenberger and Minogue when it was super easy to get through the morraine. Times have changed, the Mer de Glace has dropped in height and the morraine become looser, steeper and more dangerous but with all the new snow I spied a route on skier left that would go with one rap over a step and one jump.

DSC04678

Mikko and Jesper trenching to the breche while I shelter on a ledge below.

12699291_10207393798874509_585380122_oDSC04690

Mikko starting off

DSC04743

Jesper in the powder

DSC04784

Deep powder in the line

12751742_10207393798834508_1284422514_o

Me catching up after shooting down the line

DSC04816

Mikko getting his skis on after abseiling the lower cascade. I downclimbed this for speed.

DSC04824

Mikko under the Dru

DSC04836

Now in the Charpoura basin

DSC04833

Les Drus, Sans Non and Y couloir

DSC04865

The Nonne Eveque is the central couloir, we skied through the slabs on looker’s right

DSC04848

Charpoura cirque

DSC04815

Jesper’s signature

DSC04838

Les Drus

DSC04857

I used my long Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screw to make a double Abalakov anchor for the rap through the slabs and backed it up with the screw while Jesper abseiled.

This was a long day with lots of tiring trail breaking and with a deteriorating forecast for the next afternoon, we decided on a quick lap of Breche Tacul for day 9 on the go. On the Midi we were surprised for find 6 inches of new snow overnight which despite making for an enjoyable few turns down the Gros Rognan, meant we (or it turned out to be Jesper) had to break trail to the bergshrund. It took me longer than usual to settle into a rhythm, clear my legs out, and get going, plus it was bitterly cold in shade and my hands, feet and nose were suffering. After the shrund we swapped leads trail breaking on the climb up to the breche before savouring a 30 second view of the Jorasses and skiing down.

 

DSC04876

On the bootpack.

DSC04892

The Grandes Jorasses looking somewhat dry

DSC04899

Jesper dropping into the pow.

DSC04916

And finding the line well filled in.

DSC04924

Me dropping onto the spine.

DSC04933

And popping back off it!

DSC04988

These last two are of Jesper.

DSC05033

With the weather breaking it was time for a well earned rest day and a beer or two before ending the week with a fun powder day on Plan de l’Aiguille where I met Espen Fadnes and his mate Tom, and an early morning run down the Marbree just before it got scorchio!

No Siesta

The week started with a full throttle powder day with Mikko, Jesper and Nikolina at Pavillion. After 8 laps there we moved across the road to Val Veni and did a few laps of the cable face. It was riding pretty sweet and I was psyched to get to ride this face again this season. For once the Scandos wanted to stop before it got dark and go eat pizza which was good too. From the comfort of my sofa that night with throbbing legs I felt pretty sorry for Nikolina who was working until 2 am!

The next day was sunny and a chance to get high. I hit Helbronner with Mikko and Jesper and we found the most amazing stable powder on the mountain. By lunch we had skied the classic cables line, Tassoti, straight line 3 times and Chesso twice, in total 7 x 1000m laps. Although it was still cool we decided to go back to darker Cham side and have a run on the Rond but once we got through the tunnel the light was flat and we called it at that not wanting to spoil what had been the best cables day for me for a few years.  These days were fast, furious, and focused on skiing so no photos! The only downside was hitting a rock at full speed on the Toula glacier that had me tomahawking to a standstill. It felt like my knee would explode as the tail bit on each rotation but I luckily got away with only strained medial ligament. I did exactly the same thing before going to Baffin so knew I could manage it.

After resting my knee all the next morning I got the code red from De Masi that it was apocalyptic in Italy. We arrived over there to find it snowing at 20 cm an hour with 50 cm of fresh on the ground. With 115 underfoot it was still chest deep. There was a ridiculous amount of snow coming out of the sky and continuous face shots of cold champagne powder. Well, we skied until the liftie asked if we had homes to go to! I haven’t seen it snow that intensity since ’99 when we got a few metres in 3 days and the avalanches were blasting through the towns in the Alps, something no one wants to see a repeat of. Only a half day but 5 laps in the bag.

Pavillion freeride was the order of the day for Saturday and Michelle met up with her friend Ian from UEFA who was psyched for sport with the Cham lifts shut with the Foehn storm. During the morning it continued to snow and cover the tracks then the sun made an appearance giving us the visibility to jump on the spines and have a laugh. The main problem was avoiding white rooming yourself while launching over the pillows and fish mouths on the aprons. It was supposed to be an active rest day but in the end 7 laps dont really qualify as active rest! By now the Border control cops at the Mont Blanc tunnel were only stopping the car to ask where the good skiing was.

Eat, sleep, repeat. Too good to stop. U guessed it we were at Pavillion on Sunday, joined by Black Crows team mate Minna. We had fun there there until the sun came out at which point we decided to put some distance between ourselves and those big faces above  that were loaded with powder after days of storm. Switching to Val Veni, the trees were still providing awesome skiing, so much so that we had to have one last run and went to the Church spine face. The approach through the trees was incredible with 3 deep foot sluff runnels between the spines in the steep terrain of the forest – WTF? Then we popped out on the spine face and wait a minute, whats this heavy wet mank? Not cool. I’m guessing there was enough reflected infra red radiation off the Helbronner side onto our north facing slope to warm the snow. Time to go home. 6 laps.

Monday dawned fine. Can’t stop, won’t stop. Oli Herren said ‘yeah skiing, its a lifelong addiction.’ I wanted more, and the more I got, the more I wanted. Helbronner uppers. Michelle, Minna and myself ride the bin with Capozzi, Rolli, Civra Dano,Wallace, Hachemi, Husted. The cable face looked loaded and wind effected so we started the day on the more sheltered lines. The lower approaches into Pavillion were skiing amazingly but my legs were  tired. 4 laps and coffee. 40 laps over 6 days.

The weather for Tuesday was perfect…time to go touring use different leg muscles!

DSC03680

DSC03684DSC03735DSC03738DSC03783DSC03786DSC03794-2DSC03794DSC03842DSC03819DSC03829

DSC03902DSC03965DSC03979DSC04010DSC04026DSC04029DSC04039DSC04040DSC04052DSC04055DSC04105

FullSizeRender

FullSizeRender-1DSC04119DSC04184DSC04185DSC04196

Mont Oreb North Face

Its been a while since I have skied on this face and last time I went we decided to climb it first and got a bit lost 2/3 of the way up trying to find the ‘exposed traverse’ to the summit ridge. This time Tom and myself wanted to ski top down onsite to avoid wading up chest deep pow. The cornice is similar to the one on Mt Buet and its tough to see into the face from above but eventually we committed to a traverse going in on the rope to test the snow stability.  The anchors are sparse a the top and the best I could manage was a no. 1 camelot and 2 ski anchors. Once Tom had found the snow was perfect we packed the ropes and got on with skiing this fantastic face.

DSC03364DSC03239DSC03250DSC03277DSC03292DSC03306DSC03316DSC03326DSC03343DSC03370DSC03378DSC03380DSC03394DSC03405