Grandes Jorasses North Face – Polish Michto Variation

Last weekend I got a chance to go back to the Jorasses for the first time in 7 years. I teamed up with Ben Tibbetts and we were joined by Misha Gopaul and Jeff Banks for a social day out. I had managed a day acclimatising up the Midi skiing earlier in the week so it wasn’t a straight from the office hit which Andy Houseman and myself had done the last time on Colton Macintyre. After the warmest bivi ever in the mountains at montenevers, we walked in during the early hours, therefore avoiding a bun fight at the overcrowded Leschaux hut. It was a beautiful starry night and Ben caught a fantastic shot of the face under the stars with several teams well established on the Colton Macintyre, Croz and Polish routes. As we arrived for first light the face was relatively quiet and we quickly got to work climbing neve for several hundred metres. A few goulottes of ice and neve followed with fun climbing that was never hard up to the summit ridge where we were treated with gorgeous autumnal milky light over the Peuterey Ridge and the Aosta Valley.

Big thanks to Ben (Misha and Jeff) for a memorable day and the photos!P1040425Jorasses-NF_michto_marked

The Polish Michto Variation on Grandes Jorasses North Face (2011 photo Ben Tibbetts)DSC_8951montenvers-bivi

Our comfy bivi at Montevers
DSC_8966jorasses-night-2 Climbers on the Desmaison, Colton Macintyre and Croz/Polish RoutesDSC_9004gearing-up (1) Gearing up to go DSC_9041rimaye-jorasses Steep Sugar Through the BergshrundDSC_9077ross-ben-jorasses-selfieA Happy TeamDSC_9117jorasses-ross

The First Goulotte SectionGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-1

Ben TibbettsGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-2Ben Climbing a Thinner Seam as We Catch a Spanish Team

Me Pulling Through a Steep SectionDSC_9296jorasses-ross

Typical North Face Icy Mixed Terrain Grandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-3

Ben Pulling Through onto the Summit SnowfieldsGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-4

Gorgeous Warm Day DSC_9478jorasses-exit2

Climbing into the Sun on the Summit Ridge Snowfields
Grandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-5

Ben Savouring the Summit Ridge ViewsGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-6

Pointe Marguerite – Named After the Queen of SavoieGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-7

Mont Blanc and the Peuterey RidgeGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-8


Martin Elias descending after an ascent of Directe de l’Amite with Korra PesceGrandes Jorasses Michto Ben Tibbets-9Ben Approaching the Reposoir at Sundown

Mixed Climbing – Rebuffat Terray V5 550 m Col des Pelerins

The Rebuffat Thierry route was first climbed in winter by Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse who followed a series of ice runnels that drooled down from the Col des Pelerins. For some reason or another I had never got onto this route. A couple of years ago I had the pleasure of spending a day climbing at Gogarth with living legend Rab Carrington and knew I had to amend this obvious omission to my Chamonix winter climbing resume. Aged 60 odd Rab is inspiring to watch on the rock, still climbing big E5s and 8a with impressive flexibility, a testimony to the benefits of a stretching regime. After a year off climbing myself with being busy skiing, this was going to be a challenge to my residual climbing fitness and break me back into shape. I headed up with Sandy Simpson who was keen for a mid length day route and is fit from time well spent dry tooling at the Zoo.

The route itself was in good to lean conditions with a couple of breaks in the ice at the steeper cruxy locations due to traffic. It was great fun being back Alpine climbing and moving quickly in the mountains and not spending much time searching for protection (unlike Scotalnd) – even if slowed slightly in freeride touring boots!

On the way down we descended Pre de Rocher which contained a mixture of awful crust, disgusting wind buff and treacherous frost coated boulder fields. Hopping from sugar coated boulder to boulder was the order of the day (or night by now) and after 600 m I gave in on the skiing and decided to walk. Rebuffat Terry

Rebuffat Terry-2Rebuffat Terry-4Rebuffat Terry-5-2Rebuffat Terry-5Rebuffat Terry-6Rebuffat Terry-4-2 Rebuffat Terry-3-2 Rebuffat Terry-2-2Rebuffat Terry-7

Vertigo Wall, Creag an Dubh Loch

Ahhh, the mythical Dubh Loch in winter, what other cliff in the UK hold such a aura; remote, unpredictable, committing. Granite climbing at its finest, with the usual large dose of Scottish Winter climbing canniness required to find protection amongst those rounded flared cracks. Success here is just so much sweeter. The crag has treated me very kindly over the last few years with a lifetime experience on Mousetrap, and now Vertigo Wall, a contender for Britain’s finest winter climb.

The first few pitches went without incident, although the first 2 would be significantly easier with build up. A friend had dropped a comment during the week about the upper slabs on pitch 4 leading to the flake being ‘interesting’, and as it happened that lead fell to me. I was warned not to fall off as I approached the belay and one look at a tied off kingpin in a crack didn’t make me any less anxious about what lay ahead. I didn’t bother to look at the other piece, I didn’t need to know. The slabs were covered in 1 cm of ice which removed any chance off pro before the flake and I levitated up on shallow hooks to a wee blob of ice below the headwall. It took our shortest 7 cm crew and we all breathed a sigh of relief.

At first glance I thought about foot traversing the flake, but being clumsy I knew I’d probably knock myself off with my shoulder. Then I wasn’t too sure what to do, and finally I decided to just get down and battle with it, any which way you can, hands, tools, the lot. Hats off to Andy Nisbet and Alfie Robertson climbing this in 1977 over 2 days with a bivi. With that in mind, having climbed a few winter Dubh Loch pitches now including the crux of Rattrap, I’d say that Mousetrap was noticeably harder, longer, more sustained and teetery, but so much varies with conditions on the day.

Finally it wouldn’t be right not to mention that mad hare we met on the way in. It joined us as we drove up the Loch Muick road. If we sped up it ran faster, if we slowed it stopped in front of us. Switching the headlights off and back on revealed it sitting in the middle of the road staring at us like a demented fiend. Eventually after quite some distance we forced our way past it. Guess who joined us for another run on the way out?







Dawn breaking over Glen Muick as we enter Central Gully on the Dubh Loch

Sunrise Glen Muick from Creag an Dubh Loch Central Gully

Mark Musgrove seconding the first pitch which would be significantly easier with build up.

Mark Musgrove on Vertigo Wall P1


Mark above the techy corner on the second pitch

Mark Musgrove on Vertigo Wall P2


Mike Mcghie on pitch 3.

Mike Mcghie Vertigo Wall


The guys on the flake traverse pitch.



Flake pitch on Vertigo Wall


Myself and Neil Morrison on Mousetrap in 2010. Photos by Simon Richardson.


Ross Hewitt and Neil Morrison on Mousetrap Creag an Dubh Loch in 2010


Ross Hewitt and Neil Morrison on Creag an Dubh Loch 2010





A fantastic early season day heading out to the Northern Corries in the dark, watching the rose tinted sky at dawn and being treated to stunning views to the far North and West in the crystal clear air. The crags were magically plastered and with no wind, the climbing was really enjoyable.Sand Simpson on top pitch of Auricle in stunning conditions3rd pitch of Auricle

First pitch Auricle

Coire an Lochan no 4 ButtressCrux pitch of Auricle  - Sandy SimpsonP1030657

Mixed Cragging

I teamed up with Rab athlete Ali Swinton for a second day at the Triangle, which is the easy access local mixed crag. Conditions are still on the lean side but good with blobs of neve dotted about  to make great climbing. This time of year is fantastic with the trees in a blaze of autumnal colours and the early morning mists carpeting the valleys creating those sublime silhouetted panoramic views. The day was much more relaxed due to it being about 20 degrees warmer without the biting wind we endured on our previous outing.

I was keen to climb a superb corner a couple of pitches up which I’d previously seen friends Mike and Jim climbing. Ali kicked off with beautiful cracked slab or golden granite which led towards the corner. Arriving in the corner things were getting thin from previous ascents and some sloppy torques led to better hooks. What appeared to be a bolt and hanger winking at me at the top of the corner under a roof turned out to be an ice screw hammered into a crack – someone must have been gripped!