Argentiere Glacier

Its always a pleasure to travel under the North Wall of the Argentiere Glacier and study the big ski lines and dream about the few hours they might be in condition in April or May. We hoped to ski some of the mid altitude couloirs in the hope they were more sheltered from the wind but in the first I wasn’t able to ski cut the new snow – it would slide a couple of metres then stop, not exactly inspiring confidence. After hanging out at the col and enjoying the surroundings we opted for some meadow skipping back home. Tour Noir-1-2 Tour Noir-1 Tour Noir-2-2 Tour Noir-2 Tour Noir-3 Tour Noir-4 Tour Noir-5 Tour Noir-6 Tour Noir-7 Tour Noir-9 Tour Noir-10 Tour Noir-16Tour Noir-1-3Tour Noir-2-3Tour Noir-3-2

Sunny Days and Hot Nights at the Couvercle Refuge

The Black Crows posse of Bruno Compagnet, Minna Riihimaki and myself headed up to stay in the sweet Couvercle refuge for a night.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-1 The team excited about a trip to the mountains and the beautiful Couvercle refuge.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-2 Bruno pointing out linesBruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-3 Still some good flat snow with no sastrugi on Gros Rognan.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-4 Beautiful late afternoon light on the Mer de Glace.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-5 The 2016 Corvus Freebird and the Navis Freebird, both amazing touring skis.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-6 Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-7 They say you should always be doing something with your hands in a photo, the weirder the better! Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-8 Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-9 Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-10 Some people still dispute climate change. Here we have June snow conditions in mid March!Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-11 The last rays of the afternoon before the sun sets behind the Chamonix Aiguilles Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-12 Minna on the boot pack to the Pierre a Beranger.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-13 I’m getting on well with these glue less Evotec skins – time will tell for the final verdict. So much faster putting skins on and off without the cheat sheets. Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-14 Hut nights at the Couvercle, Bruno enjoying a glass of red.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-15 We were joined by French Alpinists who had been on Viva Gel and Whymper. They were obviously feeling the cold and put a lot of wood on the fire. It was so hot that I went to bed on my boxers and couldnt sleep until 3 am.Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-16 Bruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-17 A bit of digital art to show off the partial eclipse of the sunBruno Compagnet Minna Rihiimaki Couvercle-18

Y Couloir, Aiguille d’Argentiere

All the North wind we have had has filled in the right hand branch of Y Couloir really well this year and I have been wanting to go there for some time. I was weighing up going solo to Croullante or going to the Y but persistent afternoon cloud on the Aiguille du Midi made it an easy decision to go for Y off the first Grands Montets bin. Late in the afternoon my friend Kirsti Lehtimaki from EPIC TV messaged me saying she wanted to ski and had a friend coming too. Next morning her friend Matthieu Vigier came along with Chloe Laget and Couttet Berbere so we had a sociable skin up the classic Millieu Glacier. The lack of snow meant very firm conditions on the way up and we used ski crampons for the 1400 m climb.

On the summit there was a cold 5 kph wind blowing and I didnt linger long wanting to find the entry to the couloir, having only skied the left branch before. In the couloir it was thankfully a bit warmer and after passing 5 m of rocks at the top we put on our skis on flat corning spring snow.  SAM_0014

Y Couloir (TD, 45 degrees, 5.1/5.2 600 m) as seen from Col des Courtes. Its the big line branching below the summit of the Aiguille d’Argentiere (3901m). P1020001Y Couloir with the 60 m step at the base with the stunning golden granite spires.20150318_11560120150318_131236

Julbo Aerospace goggles – the ultimate variable venting bootpacking and touring goggle. The big lines of Couturier and Au Coeur du Monde or Col Aiguille Verte right hand (1st and only? descent by the Scottish extreme ski legends Paul MacLeod and Ewen Moffat with the Dane Thomas Husted in 2001).20150318_131958

The North Wall of the Argentiere Glacier – a lifetime of extreme ski dreams in one place. 20150318_132000
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Me happy on the summit. 20150318_133459

I was really happy to see such good conditions and lots of direct sun.
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Matthieu skiing cautiously between softer patches. The Black Crows Navis Freebird is an astonishingly good ski.20150318_144318

Kirsti skiing ice axe in hand!11074943_10153079292175932_2036905535_o

Me in the upper section, Thanks to Kirsti Lehtimaki for the photo.11076554_10153079292225932_1955151801_o

Still on firm snow at this point and putting in the chop turns to avoid any uncontrollable build up of speed.SAM_0016

Camping Time

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6This week we Dave Searle and myself went back to the Miage Glacier under Mont Blanc’s Himalayan sized West Face with the idea to have a semi-rest day and camp on day 1 and then get and early start and ski a line mid-morning before it got too hot. I had some expedition kit to test out so this provided the perfect opportunity.  Miage Aigle Dave SearleMiage Aigle Dave Searle-2Miage Aigle Dave Searle-3

At the foot of the Miage. We soon got bored of load carrying in the heat and set up camp.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-4

Chilling out in the evening.

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-5My touring set up this season.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6

Dave’s disco tentMiage Aigle Dave Searle-7

Our line for the day on looker’s right

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Dave at the start of the 1100 m bootpackMiage Aigle Dave Searle-10

The shrund was bottomless and we roped upMiage Aigle Dave Searle

Sunrise
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Upwards, on and on.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-13

The snow deteriorated due to being worked by spindrift so we skied the good stuffMiage Aigle Dave Searle-13Miage Aigle Dave Searle-14 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-3Miage Aigle Dave Searle-4Miage Aigle Dave Searle-15Miage Aigle Dave Searle-16 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-5 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6Miage Aigle Dave Searle-17Miage Aigle Dave Searle-18

Friday’s Freeride

I headed into the neighbour’s back garden the other day with the usual suspects; Liz Daley (armed with her perma-stoke), Davide de Masi and Dave Searle. Our efforts were well rewarded and we found exceptional rip-able powder waiting for us in this long hallway. A fantastic day which was ended with a beer ontop of a mountain in the sun.
Liz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-1

All quiet, the cirque to ourselvesLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-2 Liz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-3

Let the dance beginLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-4 Perma-stokeLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-5 Searler, Liz and de Masi wishing they had spanking paddles (snow plates) in the deep powLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-6

This is going to be sickLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-8

Dave SearleLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-9

Liz Daley

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Davide de Masi superstylinLiz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-12Our line
Liz Daley Dave Searle Davide de Masi_-13Heading to the bar for a well earned cold beer