Tour Ronde North Face

My plan to go do West Couloir Integral was scrapped as soon as the Midi announced they were opening late. Being Sunday there was gong to be a lot of attention on the North Face from those on their day off work so we changed to touring kit and headed off to Cirque Maudit for some tranquility and to see what looked good. Tour Ronde looked pretty good so we headed there.

The day wasn’t without a few challenges; Bird must have dreamt he could actually fly so he left his axes at home, my crampon bail snapped at the shrund and Minna had to get there on alpine day wreckers (alpine trekkers). Somehow we made it!

The last time I did this we rapped between the faces so it was a good adventure to take the skier’s left line down the face through the mixed ground. Once again I had the pleasure to ski with Minna Riihimaki and Bird Early.

Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-31

The face looking good on the left of the photo. Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-44

A choucas came to visit us as we climbed then this halo appeared. Minna and Bird enjoying good climbing conditions in the Petit Gerva.Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-50 Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-59

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In the starting gate.Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-83 Minna heading off down the upper face.

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Bird arcing out some turns in the powder.Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-107

Minna in the pow then finding some firm snow.Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-109 Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-113 Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-135 Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-143 Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-152

Kaaw, kaaw – Bird in flight.Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-161

Bird at the end of the rocky centre section with Minna sidestepping past the rocks.Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-162 Tour Ronde North Face Black Crows Bird Minna Rihiimaki-167

Into GS mode on the lower face. Screen Shot 2013-06-04 at 20.29.24My POV with sluff chasing my tails.

The Frendo Spur

Frendo spur ski route

The ski line we took on the Frendo with abseils shown by the dotted line.

I had gone to ski the Frendo 3 times this season, each time being thwarted by conditions; crusty down low, then rain runnels on the lower section and finally wind slabs on the upper half. So after a long productive winter, a lot of routes ticked and an ongoing chest infection, it was time for a break from the mountains and we headed to the Ligurian coast for some sun and warmth.

A few days down there soaking up the warm rays was just what I needed to recharge the psyche to ski another big line. It was with a small weather window after some spring storms that I then rushed back to Chamonix to see what was in condition. After a warm up lap in the Cosmiques to remind myself how to ski, I asked Bird if he wanted to ski Frendo the next day.  Luca had also been wanting to do this line for a while now and got in touch with Ben making up two teams the evening before. We were set to go.  In the morning Minna was psyched too so we ended up being the freeride 5!

The last time I was on the Frendo Spur was in 1997 and I was climbing it. We raced up the arrete in a blizzard hoping to get up round the top buttress before the sluffs got out of hand. We tied on for the final ice couloir placing gear on the rock just in case a big sluff came down. Once we got to the Midi I remember struggling to untie frozen ropes and take crampons. The lift was shut and we had to sit around for nearly 24 hrs until they de-iced the cables the next day. In stark contrast, this time, we enjoyed sweet sunshine and dreamy snow conditions from top to bottom – almost unheard of on a 1100m face at the end of May.

Maybe you don’t have to go to Alaska for spines and velvet powder after all! It has to be one of the most aesthetic ski lines in incredible situations. A very memorable day spent with friends.

Frendo spur ski descent-14 Minna at the start and heading off to play between the sunlight and shadows.Frendo spur ski descent-15 Frendo spur ski descent-37

Luca on the upper slopes beside the buttress.Frendo spur ski descent-51 Frendo spur ski descent-54

A happy team.Frendo spur ski descent-55

Ben riding the spine in the next few shots.Frendo spur ski descent-87 Frendo spur ski descent-88 Frendo spur ski descent-90 Frendo spur ski descent-91

And the resulting sluff – photo (c) Paul Lang – thanks.Frendo spur ski descent-127

Minna at the start of the spine. Frendo spur ski descent-128

Minna just above the tower. Frendo spur ski descent-134

Bird’s energy levels were obviously rising fast as he waited to ski and he charges out the gate with great sluff management.
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Luca heading to the tower. Frendo spur ski descent-166 Frendo spur ski descent-177

The Black Crows nest invaded by the Italian Cuckoo (I’m joking Luca!).Frendo spur ski descent-181

Last rap.Frendo spur ski descent-183Bird slashing out a few turns.

Frendo spur ski descent-187 Frendo spur ski descent-201Minna on the lower slopes which go on and on.
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Apres Frendo team shot. Well done to Minna – likely a first female descent.Frendo spur ski descent-207 Frendo spur ski descent-209

Bird was after more so went back up to speed-fly the line. That’s his wing just above the serac.Frendo spur ski descent-210

The wing is a tiny dot in this shot.Frendo spur ski descent-212

Cold Smoke

Today I wanted to get out and put some miles in my legs. On the back of the pre-Christmas Scottish Winter Climbing season and very little road biking this summer they are even more spindly than normal and we started the ski season with a fair bit of touring. So with great snow conditions I have the chance to get some strength back. I left the SLR at home in order to go light and enjoy the skiing more but had a little point and shoot.

I was joined by Max Turgeon and we kicked off on Brevent to take advantage of the fresh snow on the lowers. Cold, sluffy blower was lying in wait and we had a lot of fun playing with sluff.

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The plan praz couloir. Max skiing below.

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And again here.Brevent & Cos 22_01_2013-13Me ready to open Bellachat after pushing off a bit of cornice and watching the sluff go airborne.

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Max skiing.

After Brevent started to warm up I switched to the darkside and had some sweet runs off the Plan going flat out. Then as the sun came round I decided to head up the Midi and do a Rond or Cosmique. For a change I went for the Cosmiques which is always lush in the afternoon sun, all to yourself, no one trying to kill you with rocks from above, and overhead blower so cold I wished I had a gimp mask.

Brevent & Cos 22_01_2013-19

Only 2 or 3 tracks today.

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Me enjoying the warmth of the sun after the cold on the Midi. My leg muscles were well warmed up by the time the para came round and it felt good to finish the day on such a good slope arcing out the GS turns.

Les Dents du Midi – Les Doigts North Couloir

I was 17 when I first skied in the Portes du Soleil region and I got my first sight of the impressive North Face of the Dents du Midi. The 2 striking couloir lines in the photo below are musts to any aspiring big mountain skier. For whatever reason, I didn’t get round to going there in my first Alpine winter season aged 21, and its taken a full 20 years since my first glimpse to get there.

Les Dent du Midi, Couloirs Dent Jaune et Doigts

Couloirs Dent Jaune Left and Doigts on the Right. Photo Taken after Skiing Dent Jaune

And so it was that myself and Michelle went to the refuge Dents du Midi on a good forecast last week. On the approach the weather changed, the cloud dropped and the wind blew. I was glad of the Guides Scheme training while navigating to the hut in a white out.

The hut was cold and we went to bed early to keep warm under the blankets, while listening to the sound of the wind and knowing the forecast was good. Morning came and still the wind blew. Not inspired by the cold we had another couple attempts at getting up before leaving the hut with a curtailed plan given the low cloud, high wind and cold toes.

As we entered the Dent Jaune Couloir the weather deteriorated further and in the cloud I was knocking snow down to get some idea of the slope aspect. The mountain scenery in the couloir can only be described as magnificent, the towers and downward pointing limestone rock strata reminiscent of the North Face of the Eiger, with the exception that we are skiing rather than climbing. To ski in such places with the whole mountain to share between yourself and your partner is what I dream about and the reality of the adventure exceeded what I had imagined it would be like over all those years. So much so that I made a return trip the same week to ski the Doigts Right Hand Couloir.

We went with the plan to ski both the Doigts and Fortress Couloirs, unfortunately the raging wind at the weekend had created a wavy undercut surface covered in rock shards blasted of the couloir walls!  (it was very reminiscent of the exit to the White Spider on the Eiger!!) This time I was joined by Ben O’Conner Croft and Dave Searle.

Here are the photos from the second trip. The first trip will be posted next.

Finally a big thanks to Michelle, Dave and Ben for questing off into the unknown with me.

La Valais under a sea of cloud

Ben O'Conner Croft

Dent du Midi refuge Ben, Dave and Ross at Dents du Midi Refuge

L'eglise sunset 1 L'eglise sunset 1 Sunrise 2 Sunrise 1

Ross Hewitt, South Couloir Breche des Doigts 1 Ross Hewitt, South Couloir Breche des Doigts 1 Dave Searle Breche des Doigts

Doigts Couloir 13 Doigts Couloir 14 Doigts Couloir 4 Doigts Couloir 3 Doigts Couloir 2

Doigts Couloir 1 Dent de midi201 Dent de midi203 Dent de midi207 Dent de midi208Dents du Midi

Doigts Couloir 5 Doigts Couloir 6 Doigts Couloir 8 Doigts Couloir 7 Doigts Couloir 10 Doigts Couloir 11 Dent de midi221 Dent de midi224 Doigts Couloir 12 Dave Seale and Ben O'Conner Croft

Dents du Midi