Alaska 2009

For this trip we based ourselves in Cordova, ski touring on the Heney Range and flying with Points North on primo weather days in the Chugach. I was joined by Paul van Lamsveerde, Pete Benson and Evan Cameron.Alaska-1 Alaska-2 Alaska-3 Alaska-4 Alaska-5 Alaska-6 Alaska-7 Alaska-8 Alaska-9 Alaska-10 Alaska-11 Alaska-12 Alaska-13 Alaska-14 Alaska-15 Alaska-16 Alaska-17 Alaska-18 Alaska-19 Alaska-20 Alaska-21 Alaska-22 Alaska-23 Alaska-24 Alaska-25 Alaska-26 Alaska-27 Alaska-28 Alaska-29 Alaska-30 Alaska-31 Alaska-32 Alaska-33 Alaska-34 Alaska-35 Alaska-36 Alaska-37 Alaska-38 Alaska-39 Alaska-40 Alaska-41 Alaska-42 Alaska-43 Alaska-44 Alaska-45 Alaska-46

Alaska 2008 – Ruth Gorge

This was an amazing trip into the Ruth Gorge with the Benson twins and Nick Wallis. We were blessed with stable deep sluffy powder and enjoyed skiing in the Japanese couloir the West Face of Barille and some easier tours.  We built a large snowhouse which was large enough for the 4 of us and made for a civilised dining. At nights the Northern lights shown brightly with orange, reds and greens, although with -30C temps we didnt hang around outside the tent for long. also snuck a couple heli runs in, be rude not to in AK!Alaska 007

En route towards the Moose’s ToothAlaska 014 Alaska 018 Alaska 022 Alaska 027

Trenching up Japanese CouloirAlaska 035 Alaska 036

Rooster’s Comb Alaska 042

Getting steeper in Japanese CouloirAlaska 048 Alaska 057 Japanese CouloirIMG_0022

Orca Lodge, PNH CordovaIMG_0045 IMG_0091 IMG_0364

Kelly Gray looking after us
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Our snowhouse in the Ruth GorgeIMG_2270 IMG_2544ed Pete1

Me skiing a run called 'happiness'. Photo: Pete Benson
Me skiing a run called ‘happiness’. Photo: Pete Benson
West Face Barille

Hunnadalen Norway 2007

Hunnadalen valley is situated a short drive from Stavanger in the southern tip of Norway and holds a lifetime’s worth of rock to climb. Pete Benson, Guy Robertson and myself flew from Aberdeen to Stavanger and hired a car for a few days climbing. Expat Nick Ashton kindly showed us a round for a few days and allowed us to sleep on his floor.  The locals had already picked off the pure ice routes but coming from a Scottish mixed background we were like kiddies in a candy store looking around at the potential for icy mixed climbing. The highlight of the trip was trying a 500 m gully system on the final day. Being with 2 mixed masters I decided that my share of the work would be the ice pitches. It turned out to be quite a route with 9 meaty pitches of Scottish VI & VII. Half way through the day it started to snow heavily and topping out in the dark we abseiled down a rock buttress to avoid the unstable snow that had built up. In the early hours we made the airport and had an hours sleep before flying back to Aberdeen and making it into the office for a day’s work. The route was called Ergopower since Pete had bought some cheap and nasty ergo tools on ebay which had him squeeling for traction on anything steep!Hunnadalen mixed climbing-2

The gully line of Ergopower, VII,7
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The first ice pitchHunnadalen mixed climbing-12

A cave pitch took us passed the gigantic boulder at 1/3 height. Hunnadalen mixed climbing-13

Guy leading a bold icy mixed pitchHunnadalen mixed climbing-14

Pete belaying and ready to run down the gully to take in the slack if Guy fellHunnadalen mixed climbing-15

At the top of the icicleHunnadalen mixed climbing-17

Thin ice on the gully wall to pass the next stepHunnadalen mixed climbing-18

Snowing hard and arriving on thicker protectable ice, phew!
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The guys looking at a bolted M venueHunnadalen mixed climbing-7

Rock and ice everywhereHunnadalen mixed climbing-6Hunnadalen mixed climbing-3

New Zealand 2006

For this trip I hooked up with my friend and fellow Scot, Evan Cameron, who was living in Dunedin at the time. We travelled all round the South Island climbing in the mountains, sailing the fiords, swimming in rivers, sleeping on beaches, surfing, bouldering, walking. He had dislocated his shoulder a week before I arrived and carried a vial of morphine everywhere and gave me strict instructions on how to put his shoulder back in should it pop again.

The most vivd memory is getting caught in a storm sailing in the Marlborough Sounds and the boat getting knocked flat every five minutes with the mast in the water. I don’t think the boat owners ever sailed in bad weather because there was nothing to secure the drawers and pans were soon flying as the hull rolled 90 degrees. In the middle of the night one of the sail’s securing ropes wore through and the roller jenny sail got ripped open and immediately shredded. The next day dawned beautiful and calm and another yacht sailed past looking at our battered and tattered boat. Terrifying.

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Bivi Site Below Malte Brune after Morraine Bashing up the Tasman Glacier
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The Remarkables New Zealand 2006-6 New Zealand 2006-7

The Lake at Queenstown from the RemarksNew Zealand 2006-8 New Zealand 2006-9

Traversing the Remarkables After a Multipitch Route New Zealand 2006-12 New Zealand 2006-13

Bouldering Near QueenstownNew Zealand 2006-14

A moments respite from the rain in our 1 man tent, Bevan Col, AspiringNew Zealand 2006-15 New Zealand 2006-16 New Zealand 2006-17

Camping Below AspiringNew Zealand 2006-18 New Zealand 2006-19 New Zealand 2006-20 New Zealand 2006-21 New Zealand 2006-22 New Zealand 2006-23 New Zealand 2006-24

On the summit of AspiringNew Zealand 2006-25 New Zealand 2006-26 New Zealand 2006-27 New Zealand 2006-28 New Zealand 2006-29

Descending Bevan Col in Heavy RainNew Zealand 2006-30 New Zealand 2006-31 New Zealand 2006-32 New Zealand 2006-33 New Zealand 2006-34 New Zealand 2006-35 New Zealand 2006-36 New Zealand 2006-37 New Zealand 2006-38 New Zealand 2006-39 New Zealand 2006-40 New Zealand 2006-41

West Coast Fury, Charleston CragsNew Zealand 2006-42 New Zealand 2006-43 Payne’s Ford – Sports Climbing and Swimming PoolsNew Zealand 2006-44 New Zealand 2006-47 New Zealand 2006-48

The calm before the storm, we spent the next night with the mast in the water every 5 minutesNew Zealand 2006-51 New Zealand 2006-53 New Zealand 2006-54 New Zealand 2006-55 New Zealand 2006-56 New Zealand 2006-57

Stunning Organ Pipes at Lover’s LeapNew Zealand 2006-58 New Zealand 2006-59 New Zealand 2006-60 New Zealand 2006-61 New Zealand 2006-63

The DarrensNew Zealand 2006-64 New Zealand 2006-65

Waiting for the rock to dry, DarrensNew Zealand 2006-66

Trying to avoid the seepageNew Zealand 2006-68

View West from Hommer TunnelNew Zealand 2006-69

Darrens RockNew Zealand 2006-70 New Zealand 2006-71 New Zealand 2006-72 Raining Again!New Zealand 2006-73

The ChasmNew Zealand 2006-74

When it rains, it poursNew Zealand 2006-75 New Zealand 2006-76 No Need to Wash Dishes, Just Put Them in the Rain OutsideNew Zealand 2006-77

Looking for Rock to Climb in the Jungle?New Zealand 2006-78

Mitre PeakNew Zealand 2006-81

Wye CreekNew Zealand 2006-82

The Weekly WashNew Zealand 2006-83 Old Faithful, 1.0 Litre Ford Laser Estate CarNew Zealand 2006-84

Siberia Flats, en Route to Mount AwfulNew Zealand 2006-85 New Zealand 2006-86 New Zealand 2006-87 New Zealand 2006-88 New Zealand 2006-89 New Zealand 2006-90

Long walk on to find wet rock followed by a longer walk outNew Zealand 2006-91 New Zealand 2006-92

Frisby at Flock HillNew Zealand 2006-95 New Zealand 2006-96 New Zealand 2006-97 New Zealand 2006-99 New Zealand 2006-101Christchurch PeninsulaNew Zealand 2006-102

Alps 2005

This Alpine trip was fantastic and covered a few areas, starting out in Les Ecrins in January we ice climbed and ski toured before moving North to Chamonix. There we spent one cold day at the end of January climbing the Swiss route on Les Courtes on squeeky neve. Then we headed East into La Valais to ski tour on the Breithorn and Monte Rosa areas, finally finishing off in the Chamonix area skiing some classics like Col de Cristeaux and the Armencettes. Alps 2005-6 Alps 2005-7

La Grave Icefalls, Andy Benson on the LeadAlps 2005-8 Alps 2005-9 Alps 2005-10

Hey Fella!Alps 2005-11
The Davin Couloir and Les Agneaux Alps 2005-14 Alps 2005-15 Alps 2005-16 Alps 2005-17 Alps 2005-18 Alps 2005-19 Alps 2005-20

Quiet Day at the Hut in the EcrinsAlps 2005-21 Alps 2005-22 Alps 2005-23

Crux Pitch, Vallon DiableAlps 2005-24

Me After a Stunning Ice RouteAlps 2005-25

The Benson Twins and Nick Wallis in the EcrinsAlps 2005-26 Alps 2005-27

Nick Wallis above Col de LauteretAlps 2005-28

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La Verte and Les DrusAlps 2005-34

Heading off up the Swiss Routes on Les Courtes
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Aiguille du Midi from Le MontAlps 2005-42 Alps 2005-45

Teams competing in the MezzalamaAlps 2005-46 Alps 2005-48

Summit Ridge of the BreithornAlps 2005-50

The Mezzalama Heading over Castor and PolluxAlps 2005-51

The Schwarze Glacier next to the Breithorn

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The Matterhorn at Dawn from Monte RosaAlps 2005-55

At the Monte Rosa HutAlps 2005-56

Monte RosaAlps 2005-57

MatterhornAlps 2005-58 Alps 2005-59

CouturierAlps 2005-60

Window Shopping in the Argentiere Basin. i.e. waiting on weatherAlps 2005-61 Alps 2005-63

Y CouloirAlps 2005-64 Alps 2005-65

Col des CourtesAlps 2005-66

Col de CristeauxAlps 2005-67

The NE on Les CourtesAlps 2005-68 Alps 2005-69

Heading into the ConscritsAlps 2005-70 Alps 2005-71

Me and the West Face of Mont Blanc Alps 2005-72

Ryler on Domes de MiageAlps 2005-74

Skiing down the ArmencettesAlps 2005-75 Alps 2005-76 Ryler at the Argentiere HutAlps 2005-77

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Ryler, Wolfgang, Thomas, Jessica and Friends on Col de CristeauxAlps 2005-79

Dawn on Mont DolentAlps 2005-82

Mark Ryle on Col des Cristeaux and some Glacier ArtAlps 2005-83 Alps 2005-84

Old Skool, Argentiere Basin Steeps on Altitrails!Alps 2005-85 Mark Ryle on Col des Cristeaux