Les Dents du Midi – Les Doigts North Couloir

I was 17 when I first skied in the Portes du Soleil region and I got my first sight of the impressive North Face of the Dents du Midi. The 2 striking couloir lines in the photo below are musts to any aspiring big mountain skier. For whatever reason, I didn’t get round to going there in my first Alpine winter season aged 21, and its taken a full 20 years since my first glimpse to get there.

Les Dent du Midi, Couloirs Dent Jaune et Doigts

Couloirs Dent Jaune Left and Doigts on the Right. Photo Taken after Skiing Dent Jaune

And so it was that myself and Michelle went to the refuge Dents du Midi on a good forecast last week. On the approach the weather changed, the cloud dropped and the wind blew. I was glad of the Guides Scheme training while navigating to the hut in a white out.

The hut was cold and we went to bed early to keep warm under the blankets, while listening to the sound of the wind and knowing the forecast was good. Morning came and still the wind blew. Not inspired by the cold we had another couple attempts at getting up before leaving the hut with a curtailed plan given the low cloud, high wind and cold toes.

As we entered the Dent Jaune Couloir the weather deteriorated further and in the cloud I was knocking snow down to get some idea of the slope aspect. The mountain scenery in the couloir can only be described as magnificent, the towers and downward pointing limestone rock strata reminiscent of the North Face of the Eiger, with the exception that we are skiing rather than climbing. To ski in such places with the whole mountain to share between yourself and your partner is what I dream about and the reality of the adventure exceeded what I had imagined it would be like over all those years. So much so that I made a return trip the same week to ski the Doigts Right Hand Couloir.

We went with the plan to ski both the Doigts and Fortress Couloirs, unfortunately the raging wind at the weekend had created a wavy undercut surface covered in rock shards blasted of the couloir walls!  (it was very reminiscent of the exit to the White Spider on the Eiger!!) This time I was joined by Ben O’Conner Croft and Dave Searle.

Here are the photos from the second trip. The first trip will be posted next.

Finally a big thanks to Michelle, Dave and Ben for questing off into the unknown with me.

La Valais under a sea of cloud

Ben O'Conner Croft

Dent du Midi refuge Ben, Dave and Ross at Dents du Midi Refuge

L'eglise sunset 1 L'eglise sunset 1 Sunrise 2 Sunrise 1

Ross Hewitt, South Couloir Breche des Doigts 1 Ross Hewitt, South Couloir Breche des Doigts 1 Dave Searle Breche des Doigts

Doigts Couloir 13 Doigts Couloir 14 Doigts Couloir 4 Doigts Couloir 3 Doigts Couloir 2

Doigts Couloir 1 Dent de midi201 Dent de midi203 Dent de midi207 Dent de midi208Dents du Midi

Doigts Couloir 5 Doigts Couloir 6 Doigts Couloir 8 Doigts Couloir 7 Doigts Couloir 10 Doigts Couloir 11 Dent de midi221 Dent de midi224 Doigts Couloir 12 Dave Seale and Ben O'Conner Croft

Dents du Midi

A Rond, a Grand and a Petit

My first outing on the Midi this season felt great to be back in the big mountains and away from the frantic ski resorts which are hooching right now. No ropes on the arrete so we were able to ski it quickly. Following the westerly wind event, some caution was required so we went to Grand Envers which was blower and effortless.

A quick reset back to the Midi and I wanted to ski the Rond to get some training. The pow was so consistent and the bottom couloir was non stop to the Glacier. After tracking round to the Gare des Glaciers, we didn’t fancy traversing the para face, and the moraine facets would have been a wallow fest to the bench under the North Face. So we took the shot down the para face to the old station which was lush. Skiing in the woods below on refrozen crud was not my favourite.

After sprinting thru the gypsy camp and avoiding getting mauled by their rapid dogs it was back to the lift for one more. This time we went for deep pow in Moyen Envers which was a fine end to the day. Down at 4 Roger even hinted at one more – next week now the legs are returning!

Roger Knox at top of the Rond

 

The Rond, Aiguille du Midi
The Rond, Aiguille du Midi

Rond exit couloir

Rond exit couloir - Roger Knox

Heli at Gare des Glaciers

 

Vapouriser – Creag an Dubh Loch

I was in at the Dubh Loch 2 weeks ago to climb Vertigo Wall with some friends, and while we geared up, I spotted the direct looking nearly as icy as it was a couple of years back in the mega winter of 2010. I had half a mind to go for that but we had an arrangement to go do Vertigo Wall and I was just up for some quality climbing. Funnily enough while I was climbing the first pitch on the classic but who was to appear but Guy and Greg. I’d spotted two crossing the loch a good way behind us and thought it was more likely a team going for Hanging Garden at that late hour – Guy’s getting a reputation for sleeping in! While I was belaying I got a chance to watch Greg smoothly climb up the first pitch and snatched a few shots of him. Their ‘out the wrapper’ tools certainly proved very necessary on that thin ice!

1. Greg Boswell starting out

2. Greg Boswell on P1

4. Greg Boswell on P1

6. Greg Boswell on P1

7. Greg Boswell on P1

9. Greg Boswell on P3

 

Flow

Its that exciting and hectic time of year for me again, getting finished work, Christmas shopping, packing up and getting ready to drive to Chamonix for the winter. This year has been faster and more furious than ever before and I have had a lot of fun reliving some of the moments from 2012 putting this together and getting psyched for this winter: