Pointe D’Orny

The autumn and pre Christmas period was a busy one for me with our trip to New Zealand, high pressure in the Alps and perfect stable snow conditions for exploring. That meant I only had a couple of rest days per month and by the end of the year I touched 180 ski days – hence the reason why my blog was somewhat neglected due to the ease of posting to instagram and facebook!

The day after the PLUM party Vivian Bruchez, Giulia Monego and Dave Searler headed to Pointe d”Orny to ski one of the couloirs. After climbing the couloir we sat and ate lunch in while soaking up the sun on the plateau and taking in the views of the Chardonnet and surrounding peaks. Once again we found a mixture of good cold snow varying from powder to chalk.

Getting After It

Its been a while since I posted on my blog because I’ve been really lucky and had a run of routes in the mountains and not much time at home.  Michelle had 10 days off work and timed it perfectly with the arrival of 80 cm of powder. Enrico Mosetti was also visiting from the Julian Alps and I had the pleasure of showing him around the mountains for the week. We had a day on the Midi skiing a Rond and Cosmique with Minna Riihimaki and Dave Searle which got the juices flowing. Usually I ski around 200 runs off the Midi a year but this was only my 6th day on The Mothership – its definitely been a unique season. The next day we could have easily kept hoovering lift access powder off the Midi but I just want to ski in the mountains by this stage of the season so we decided to get some solitude and tour 800 m up to the Col du Capucin. I’d not been there since 2011 and no one had been there this season. At the col I was pretty sure the abseil anchor was on the left and we set about digging down to find it. With no traffic this year the 50 degree couloir had filled in to an extent that I’ve never seen. As I rapped in and sunk up to my chest I regretted not rapping with skis on.  The rest was beautiful deep sluffy cold pow and the only issue was avoiding your sluff, certainly my best powder run of the season. Over a beer Elevation in the hot afternoon sun we decided to go East facing the next day – I had a little project that I’d meant to do for a few years that would test our endurance to the max. The plan was to skin up 1200 m to Col Tour Noir Superior at 3690m, ski the 5.2 50/45 degree East Couloir, then skin 700 m up the scorchio South facing slopes to Col du Saleina at 3419m,  finishing with the grind up the Saleina Glacier and over Col du Chardonnet at 3223m. The route weighs in at circa 2500m of up, 4000 m of down, a lot of time in the dry air above 3000 m and getting microwaved from the inside out on South facing glaciers in the super hot sun. Enrico didn’t know better and was up for adventure and Michelle didn’t bother checking it out or listening to the numbers so came expecting it to be easy – I was surprised she thought I did easy things! Usually I carry 0.5 litres and decided 2 litres might just be enough. In the end 2.5 would have been ideal but 2 worked. The first climb gets the sun early and I’ve been cooked on this climb before. Fortunately a chilly wind kept us cool and we arrived at the col having not sweated much fluid. Looking down the sunnyside we were pleased to see the couloir was full of snow.  We were skiing on sight without any knowledge of conditions over there. After some steep sugar turns, things mellowed out to 45 degrees and we rode the couloir in 2 or 3 pitches on a combination of creamy spring snow and chalky powder. The next skin lived up to all expectations of being hotter than hell and we stripped down to white base layers and just got on with it loosing fluids and salts at a stupid rate. Just before the col Saleina I had to get my swollen feet out my boots as the crushing bone pain was becoming pretty bad. Enrico and myself ran out of water about here. Unfortunately for Michelle, she thought it was a ski down to Cham from here and didn’t take the news too well that we had 2 hours to the next col. I’m sure she is going to heavily scrutinise any of my future plans in minute detail! After force feeding her and with no technicalities left it was pretty easy for an ex-ironman triathlete to rally and get up to Col du Chardonnet. There we were rewarded with golden glow of the late evening sun and soft spring snow down to Lognan where we stepped of our skis after 11 hours. As the spring skiing in the A Neuve Basin had been so good, I decided to do another route there, this time just with Enrico. I’d never skied Passage D’Argentiere so that was the obvious choice with only 1000 m of skinning and the main difficulty being negotiating the large cliff at the base on sight. A quick rap off the col with skis on and we were away skiing soft spring snow in big turns and having a lot of fun. Then Enrico hit a trigger point and a metre deep wet slab ripped out – he did so well to point it out and ride clear – we were still above a large cliff at this point. With our nerves jangling I took a look at a picture of the face to find our exit and we mange to link some ramps out right and get off the face without taking our skis off. The snow turned to shit lower down the mellow glacier,  having not frozen the night before It was collapsing under the tails of our skis or sucking at them at different rates. I stopped half way down and turned expecting Enrico to be there, but no sign. After waiting 5 minutes he appeared with blood pissing down his face. In the gloop he had tomhawked and taken the tip of a ski through his mouth – oW!  OOOOOOWWWWWW!!!! He just stood there spitting out blood as it filled up in his mouth and shrugged it off with ‘is it beer time?’ Sure is, its past noon now! Somehow Enrico was allowed onto La Fouly’s Terrace bar despite looking like he had killed a wild boar by biting through its Aorta! I could see small upset children running to arms of their parents who had concerned looked. Backwoods Switzerland is pretty conservative and a bearded bloodstained man yielding an ice axe would be treated with caution in most places perhaps with the exception of Fort William. Enrico got cleaned up and amazingly we got served. After a pint (or 2) Michelle came and picked us up and took us home – what a star! For Enrico’s last day I had a long day in mind – a North-South traverse of Les Courtes. Up Cristeaux, along the ridge and down Croullante Couloir. After a 1000 m climb we hit the ridge and a beautiful traverse took us towards the Aiguille Croullante. 1997 was the last time I did this ridge and it was a real pleasure to do it again surrounded my magnificent scenery in all directions. We rapped onto the North Side to traverse below this pinnacle and found some horror show 55 degree sugar ontop of a mixture of black ice and weetabix rock. I couldnt get a pick placement and just teetered on my feet while I pulled the ropes. Getting my backpack (with skis) off and balancing it on my thighs to secure the ropes was probably the hardest manoeuvre I’ve been faced with in the hills.  I quickly joined Enrico at the col and we put our skis on the super exposed knife edge separating the Croullante Couloir and the 800 m North Face of Qui Remue.  A lassoed spike let us rap over a boulder and after packing the ropes we discussed if we should try make Montenvers in 35 mins or suffer the ball-baggery of walking to Cham. I elected to go for it and 8 mins later we were below the shrund after sending the line on perfect velvet corn. That definitely ranked in my top 5 big mountain ski descents for snow quality. We schussed down the Talefre glacier passing Pierre a Beranger. Slowing only for a rock slide and some slabs (sorry skis) we arrived below Montenevers just in time for the ‘last lift in 5 minutes’ announcement. A sprint up the stairs ensured we got the training effect that we may have missed earlier in the day! What a great day and a perfect finish to a week skiing with Enrico. I’m looking forward to going and visiting him in the Julian Alps next season. The last run that I’ll post here was with Luca Pandolfi and Tom Grant. The plan was to do the South Face of the Dent de Geant, which although I have skied before in pow, would be fun on the corn. Leaving the Helbronner we were met my a bitingly cold North East wind and on the way over we decided things were unlikely to soften at 4000 m. Instead we headed for the ‘Petit’ variation that sneaks onto the face 200 m or so lower. On the ridge the wind continued to howl and we hid behind the rocks, relaxing and laughing while waiting for the snow to soften up. I took my Atris for this freeride face and had a lot of fun arcing out the turns on the creamy corn. Down at the alpages we swapped ski boots for flip flops and strolled down through some of Italy’s prime real estate to Lou’s cafe and tunnel pizza. There was one more hit before the run came to an end, over Mont Dolent. With Andy Nelson we climbed the Charlet and descended the Gallet ridge – I’ll post that next!   20150406_112304 Heading to the Col Capucin20150406_135451(0)One rap in, Michelle skiing11024789_10153639642273973_656810169192206345_n Me trying to avoid getting sluffed with the sluff train down over the shrund20150406_135816Enrico charging20150406_140832_1_bestshot 20150406_141244_1_bestshot Michelle enjoying the powder under the Capucin 18596_10153639642918973_1096087686793219780_nThe reward for the best pow run of the season RH Enrico and Myself of Col Tour Noir Superior20150408_133919 Enrico blasting down the East Couloir20150408_133954_1_bestshot Michelle skiing 11030840_10205148974956140_1868574250360739144_n Me getting my shot in20150408_134251 Enrico big mountain wave riding 20150408_134359 Michelle20150408_134842 Enrico about half way down20150408_140447(0)Michelle exiting the couloir20150408_144613 Michelle underneath the Gallet Ridge of Dolent (left) which we skied later in the week and the stunningly beautiful North East Face of the Amone on the right which I skied with my good buddy Dave Searle one sick weekend in 2011. Did I mention it was hotter than hell skinning up this South Facing glacier?20150408_175950Final treadmill session was eased by the milky late afternoon light and cooler temperatures. 20150408_190254The final wee bootback on Col du Chardonnet, fixed rope handrail 20150408_192344 Savouring the moment, nearly 8 pm. 20150408_192827(0) Ripper corn on the West facing slopes20150410_124621 Passage d’Argentiere – Enrico blasting off20150410_125152Freeride down to the big cliff 20150410_133537#1 Enrico spitting blood after tomahawking in rotten slop and getting a ski tip in the mouth on flat glacier 20150410_132134In the zone!20150412_125543Traverse of the Courtes – up Cristeaux, along the ridge and down Croullante. The 2 Norwegians followed along on our heals the whole way but seemed reluctant to do any work instead letting an old man like me put the booter in. If I was 20 again there’d be no way I’d wait for some old codger.  20150412_135434On the Ridge 20150412_140804I had not been here since 1997 20150412_143023Enrico contemplating the traverse around the Croullante20150412_154352One of the most precarious spots to step onto skis on a knife edge ridge with 800 m Qui Remue behind and 600 m Croullante Couloir below 20150412_154405Excited about the perfect conditions on velvet20150412_155107Enrico on the 10 m rap20150412_155912Time to rip – 4 pm and Montenvers last gondola at 435 pm, about 6000 feet and 7 miles to cover.croullanteThe couloir rode smooth and fast – 8 mins including camera stops! In Elevation by 5 with a hell of a thirst.20150412_16035920150414_102633Next! Sheltering out the wind and waiting for the snow to soften on the South Face of Dent de Geant 11156943_10101530346871398_681779973_n   Beautiful setting. While Waiting for Luca and Tom I skinned over to the top of the Marbree seen behind to pay my respects to Dave Rosenbarger who died in an avalanche there earlier this year. It was the first time I went there this year and an emotional moment to be there on the col. 11157170_10152657073492260_586698300_oMe enjoying the creamy spring snow with Marbree behind. 

Rock Climbing in the Chamonix Aiguilles

Summer weather has returned to the Alps which enabled Dave Searle and myself to go to Envers des Aiguilles for a couple of days. The approach has got a bit longer over the years with the level of the Mer de Glace constantly dropping and added ladders to descend and climb again on the glacial slabs. Its been a long time since I had been here in summer and I have to say that the Mer de Glace looks a bit sad all covered in rubble and disappearing fast through climate change. About 5 years ago I did some ice training on the fins of ice over on the Charpoura side and you can see in the photo below that all there is over there is piles of rubble. For the city dwellers out there its quite difficult to grasp the concept that the world is a warmer place since there isn’t any visual evidence. Here is the Alps the level and volume of ice is a direct indicator of the average annual temperature and its and every day reminder that things are changing. They are not only changing but it appears that the change is accelerating. Maybe its already too late for us, but why not ride a bike or walk to work just in case you can make a difference. The death of the glaciers fills me with a sense of loss and I feel sad that the future generations won’t be able to experience the mountains as we knew them.

On the approach to the Envers hut we slowly started to melt as the temperatures soared and quickly decided to go for a couple of the shorter routes rather than something like the 850 m ‘Soleil Rendevous Avec le Lune.’ After a quick look at my guide we set of up the classic 12 pitch ‘Bienvenue.’  A couple of pitches in and things were feel very familar but then they share the same start with Les Fleurs du Mal that I had climbed before. A few more pitches in and it dawned on me that I had climbed this route a decade ago but somehow not ticked it off in my guide book. It was unfamiliar enough though and the climbing good to still be as much fun second time round.

Dave had talked me into staying in the refuge because it was pretty cheap with an alpine club card and as it started to rain in the evening it seemed like a good idea. I normally don’t like huts and haven’t stayed in a European hut for years. They are cold, noisy and on several occasions I have had someone mistake my kit for theirs and disappear of into the mountains with it. And so it was with no surprise that when I got up my mountain boots had gone. Someone had mistaken my faded old size 44 Trangos for their relatively new size 45 Trangos. I can only imagine this person still lives with their mother who dresses them every morning. The sun was rising and with the peaks glowing I decided to go take some photos to let my frustration vent but my camera wasn’t cooperating and gave up the ghost. All that was left to do was make the 5 minute approach to Pyramid and get on it. The rock in this sector is much more sustained and the climbing just brilliant. I found it pretty hard too, but then granite crack climbing is always a fight.

Envers rock climbingEnvers rock climbing-3Envers rock climbing-4Envers rock climbing-5envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-1envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-2Envers rock climbing-6envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-3Envers rock climbing-7Envers rock climbing-8envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-4envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-5envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-620140717_08082920140717_082513envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-7envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-820140717_09212920140717_09232420140717_093429envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-920140717_10560920140717_111709#1envers rock climbing Ross Hewitt-10


Chamonix Ski Album 2014

I’m just back from an amazing 5 week adventure skiing couloirs in the remote fiords on Baffin Island. Before I left I didn’t get a chance to post this collection of photos from the Chamonix season (which has only just ended – btw). The season went by quickly for me and my focus was more on skiing than photography but there are still some images worth sharing.

More on Baffin later but here you go, lots of diamond studded memories from the Chamonix season thanks to: Michelle Blaydon, Dave Searle, Liz Daley, Davide de Masi, Cedric Bernardini, Mikko Heimonen, Kirsti Lehtimaki, Minna Rihiimaki, Tom Grant, Luca Pandolfi, John Minogue, Dave Rosenbarger, Greg Roche, Bjarne Salen, Jeremy Bogen, Seth Morrison and many others.

Chamonix skiing 2014-2-2 Cedric Bernardini

Chamonix skiing 2014-124 Cedric BernardiniChamonix skiing 2014-123 John MinogueChamonix skiing 2014-122 John MinogueChamonix skiing 2014-121 John MinogueChamonix skiing 2014-120 Chamonix skiing 2014-118 Chamonix skiing 2014-117 Dave Searle Chamonix skiing 2014-115 Chamonix skiing 2014-114 Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-113 Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-110 Chamonix skiing 2014-107 Chamonix skiing 2014-106Dave Searle and Liz DaleyChamonix skiing 2014-105 Chamonix skiing 2014-104 Davide de MasiChamonix skiing 2014-103 Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-101 Searle, De Masi and DaleyChamonix skiing 2014-100 Liz Daley, perma-stoked
Chamonix skiing 2014-97 Searle, De Masi, DaleyChamonix skiing 2014-96Dave Searle and Liz Daley
Chamonix skiing 2014-94 Liz DaleyChamonix skiing 2014-93 Liz DaleyChamonix skiing 2014-92 Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-91 Liz Daley Chamonix skiing 2014-88 Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-86 Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-85 Michelle Blaydon, Caroline Gleich and Colin HaleyChamonix skiing 2014-82

Greg RocheChamonix skiing 2014-81 Dave Searle and Mikko Heimonen on Aiguille VerteChamonix skiing 2014-80 Chamonix skiing 2014-79 Chamonix skiing 2014-71

Dave Searle and Mikko Heimonen en route to CouturierChamonix skiing 2014-70

Chamonix skiing 2014-69

Me in the boxChamonix skiing 2014-68 Chamonix skiing 2014-67

Michelle Blaydon after the Domenech CouloirChamonix skiing 2014-66

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-64

Mikko HeimonenChamonix skiing 2014-63

Mikko HeimonenChamonix skiing 2014-62

Mikko Heimonen, Kirsti Lehtimaki and Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-61Ross Hewitt
Chamonix skiing 2014-60

Tom GrantChamonix skiing 2014-59 Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-58

Dave RosenbargerChamonix skiing 2014-57

Spines in the DolomitesChamonix skiing 2014-56

RH in Holzer

Chamonix skiing 2014-55

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-54 Chamonix skiing 2014-53

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-52

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-51

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-50

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-49 Chamonix skiing 2014-48 Chamonix skiing 2014-47

Kirsti LehtimakiChamonix skiing 2014-46

Minna RihiimakiChamonix skiing 2014-45 Waiting at the MidiChamonix skiing 2014-44

Courmayeur to myselfChamonix skiing 2014-43 Liz Daley Storm Riding

Liz Daley

Chamonix skiing 2014-41

Davide de MasiLiz Daley Spine Riding

Liz DaleyChamonix skiing 2014-38

Davide de MasiChamonix skiing 2014-37

The powder panda attracting looks from the localsChamonix skiing 2014-36

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-35

Jeremy Bogen

Chamonix skiing 2014-34 Davide de MasiChamonix skiing 2014-33

Liz Daley

Chamonix skiing 2014-32

Davide de MasiChamonix skiing 2014-31

Jeremy BogenChamonix skiing 2014-30

Davide de Masi Chamonix skiing 2014-28

Davide de MasiChamonix skiing 2014-27

Davide de MasiChamonix skiing 2014-26 Chamonix skiing 2014-24

Michelle Blaydon before skiingChamonix skiing 2014-22 Chamonix skiing 2014-21

Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-20 Chamonix skiing 2014-19

Dave SearleChamonix skiing 2014-17

Dave Searle, Bjarne Salen and John.Chamonix skiing 2014-15

Bjarne Salen Chamonix skiing 2014-13

Ross Hewitt – CouturierChamonix skiing 2014-12

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-11

Michelle Blaydon

Chamonix skiing 2014-10

Michelle BlaydonChamonix skiing 2014-9

Seth MorrisonChamonix skiing 2014-8

Seth Morrison and Nate WallaceChamonix skiing 2014-7

RHChamonix skiing 2014-6 Chamonix skiing 2014-6-2

RH on Aiguille VerteChamonix skiing 2014-5

Minna RihiimakiChamonix skiing 2014-5-2

RH, WhymperChamonix skiing 2014-4

Luca PandolfiChamonix skiing 2014-4-2

RH in WhymperChamonix skiing 2014-3 Chamonix skiing 2014-3-2 Dave Searle and Mikko Heimonen in CouturierChamonix skiing 2014-2 Chamonix skiing 2014-2-3Dave Searle in Couturier

Camping Time

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6This week we Dave Searle and myself went back to the Miage Glacier under Mont Blanc’s Himalayan sized West Face with the idea to have a semi-rest day and camp on day 1 and then get and early start and ski a line mid-morning before it got too hot. I had some expedition kit to test out so this provided the perfect opportunity.  Miage Aigle Dave SearleMiage Aigle Dave Searle-2Miage Aigle Dave Searle-3

At the foot of the Miage. We soon got bored of load carrying in the heat and set up camp.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-4

Chilling out in the evening.

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-5My touring set up this season.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6

Dave’s disco tentMiage Aigle Dave Searle-7

Our line for the day on looker’s right

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-9

Dave at the start of the 1100 m bootpackMiage Aigle Dave Searle-10

The shrund was bottomless and we roped upMiage Aigle Dave Searle

Sunrise
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Upwards, on and on.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-13

The snow deteriorated due to being worked by spindrift so we skied the good stuffMiage Aigle Dave Searle-13Miage Aigle Dave Searle-14 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-3Miage Aigle Dave Searle-4Miage Aigle Dave Searle-15Miage Aigle Dave Searle-16 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-5 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6Miage Aigle Dave Searle-17Miage Aigle Dave Searle-18