Y Couloir, Aiguille d’Argentiere

All the North wind we have had has filled in the right hand branch of Y Couloir really well this year and I have been wanting to go there for some time. I was weighing up going solo to Croullante or going to the Y but persistent afternoon cloud on the Aiguille du Midi made it an easy decision to go for Y off the first Grands Montets bin. Late in the afternoon my friend Kirsti Lehtimaki from EPIC TV messaged me saying she wanted to ski and had a friend coming too. Next morning her friend Matthieu Vigier came along with Chloe Laget and Couttet Berbere so we had a sociable skin up the classic Millieu Glacier. The lack of snow meant very firm conditions on the way up and we used ski crampons for the 1400 m climb.

On the summit there was a cold 5 kph wind blowing and I didnt linger long wanting to find the entry to the couloir, having only skied the left branch before. In the couloir it was thankfully a bit warmer and after passing 5 m of rocks at the top we put on our skis on flat corning spring snow.  SAM_0014

Y Couloir (TD, 45 degrees, 5.1/5.2 600 m) as seen from Col des Courtes. Its the big line branching below the summit of the Aiguille d’Argentiere (3901m). P1020001Y Couloir with the 60 m step at the base with the stunning golden granite spires.20150318_11560120150318_131236

Julbo Aerospace goggles – the ultimate variable venting bootpacking and touring goggle. The big lines of Couturier and Au Coeur du Monde or Col Aiguille Verte right hand (1st and only? descent by the Scottish extreme ski legends Paul MacLeod and Ewen Moffat with the Dane Thomas Husted in 2001).20150318_131958

The North Wall of the Argentiere Glacier – a lifetime of extreme ski dreams in one place. 20150318_132000
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Me happy on the summit. 20150318_133459

I was really happy to see such good conditions and lots of direct sun.
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Matthieu skiing cautiously between softer patches. The Black Crows Navis Freebird is an astonishingly good ski.20150318_144318

Kirsti skiing ice axe in hand!11074943_10153079292175932_2036905535_o

Me in the upper section, Thanks to Kirsti Lehtimaki for the photo.11076554_10153079292225932_1955151801_o

Still on firm snow at this point and putting in the chop turns to avoid any uncontrollable build up of speed.SAM_0016

Alps 2005

This Alpine trip was fantastic and covered a few areas, starting out in Les Ecrins in January we ice climbed and ski toured before moving North to Chamonix. There we spent one cold day at the end of January climbing the Swiss route on Les Courtes on squeeky neve. Then we headed East into La Valais to ski tour on the Breithorn and Monte Rosa areas, finally finishing off in the Chamonix area skiing some classics like Col de Cristeaux and the Armencettes. Alps 2005-6 Alps 2005-7

La Grave Icefalls, Andy Benson on the LeadAlps 2005-8 Alps 2005-9 Alps 2005-10

Hey Fella!Alps 2005-11
The Davin Couloir and Les Agneaux Alps 2005-14 Alps 2005-15 Alps 2005-16 Alps 2005-17 Alps 2005-18 Alps 2005-19 Alps 2005-20

Quiet Day at the Hut in the EcrinsAlps 2005-21 Alps 2005-22 Alps 2005-23

Crux Pitch, Vallon DiableAlps 2005-24

Me After a Stunning Ice RouteAlps 2005-25

The Benson Twins and Nick Wallis in the EcrinsAlps 2005-26 Alps 2005-27

Nick Wallis above Col de LauteretAlps 2005-28

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La Verte and Les DrusAlps 2005-34

Heading off up the Swiss Routes on Les Courtes
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Aiguille du Midi from Le MontAlps 2005-42 Alps 2005-45

Teams competing in the MezzalamaAlps 2005-46 Alps 2005-48

Summit Ridge of the BreithornAlps 2005-50

The Mezzalama Heading over Castor and PolluxAlps 2005-51

The Schwarze Glacier next to the Breithorn

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The Matterhorn at Dawn from Monte RosaAlps 2005-55

At the Monte Rosa HutAlps 2005-56

Monte RosaAlps 2005-57

MatterhornAlps 2005-58 Alps 2005-59

CouturierAlps 2005-60

Window Shopping in the Argentiere Basin. i.e. waiting on weatherAlps 2005-61 Alps 2005-63

Y CouloirAlps 2005-64 Alps 2005-65

Col des CourtesAlps 2005-66

Col de CristeauxAlps 2005-67

The NE on Les CourtesAlps 2005-68 Alps 2005-69

Heading into the ConscritsAlps 2005-70 Alps 2005-71

Me and the West Face of Mont Blanc Alps 2005-72

Ryler on Domes de MiageAlps 2005-74

Skiing down the ArmencettesAlps 2005-75 Alps 2005-76 Ryler at the Argentiere HutAlps 2005-77

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Ryler, Wolfgang, Thomas, Jessica and Friends on Col de CristeauxAlps 2005-79

Dawn on Mont DolentAlps 2005-82

Mark Ryle on Col des Cristeaux and some Glacier ArtAlps 2005-83 Alps 2005-84

Old Skool, Argentiere Basin Steeps on Altitrails!Alps 2005-85 Mark Ryle on Col des Cristeaux

Gabarrou

A short edit from Luca from a day out on the Gabarrou route on Les Courtes.

PS – EPIC TV chose the title – not us!

My tracks, Cordier-Gabarrou, Courtes
My tracks, Cordier-Gabarrou, Courtes

Attempt on the Gabarrou Les Courtes

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Mikko, Tom and Ben chilling in the sun.Les Courtes Gabarrou-12 Les Courtes Gabarrou-14 Les Courtes Gabarrou-15

Mikko.Les Courtes Gabarrou-17

Luca arriving at the hanging glacier.Les Courtes Gabarrou-18

I’m not going well today and about to ski down. The guys blast on and ski from the summit.
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Luca coming up.  Les Courtes Gabarrou-30

I get great snow on the way down before it got hot. About 2 turns in a section 100 m wide ripped above the serac. Would have made a good photo from below.Les Courtes Gabarrou-33

Les Courtes, North East Spur

Today was about just getting out for me. Its been an emotional period, I hadn’t skied for a couple of weeks, my back was untested after injury,  I wasn’t sure if the psyche was there for skiing big mountains…knowing the NE spur of the Courtes was in made it the obvious choice, nothing too hard or scary to try and regain the feel for it.

I was joined by Max, Tom and Dave although Dave had to turn back with binding issues.  We made steady progress climbing the face in the sunshine but as we arrived at the lower angled summit slopes, the sun moved off and the snow started to refreeze.  We called it a day and skied from there.

This is the fifth route I’ve skied on this mountain and I think the 11th time I’ve skied off Les Courtes. Truely a skiers playground.

Afterwards we watched Sami Haapasalmi and his Finnish friends ski the right hand finish of Col Aiguille Verte. Hats off for ticking one of the steepest sustained ice slopes in the Alps.

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Tom enjoying the refrozen crusty snow through this section.NE Spur Les Courtes-92

Tom having fun.NE Spur Les Courtes-105

Max enjoying good pow. NE Spur Les Courtes-117

Tom ripping it up.NE Spur Les Courtes-119

Max blasting to the bottom. NE Spur Les Courtes-132

The skiers are at half height. The bootpack is obvious. Steep.NE Spur Les Courtes-137 Can you spot the 4 skiers?NE Spur Les Courtes-141

Still looks steep from this angle!