Mixed Climbing on Mont Blanc du Tacul – Pinnochio

Yesterday I had the pleasure of climbing with my good friend Andy Houseman on Pinnochio which lies on the East Face on Mont Blanc du Tacul. For some reason we haven’t climbed together for 4 years, I guess I’ve been concentrating on skiing while Andy has been doing expeditions. We had both climbed Pinnochio before in 2007 and this time round in was a lot thinner and more sporting but still amazing climbing, some of the best day hit modern mixed climbing I’ve done in Chamonix. It was a mild, windless day, absolutely perfect alpine conditions.  After we decided to ski down through the valley blanche for the first time this year which was sporting but ok.  Pinnochio-1 Pinnochio-3
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Pow

PowWe found some great snow today which was a real pleasure and unexpected after the high winds. Thanks to Michelle for capturing this shot. I’m looking forward to the next reset to open up the terrain in the Chamonix area and fill in some holes.

 

Trident Couloir

The first adventure of the season was to an often overlooked line that provided superb situations and stunning views. About 1000 m up from the glacier lands you at the top of the line. Despite being on the sunny side it was bitterly cold and my feet were continuously painful and on the wrong side of cold. The prolonged exposure to the cold in Baffin has definitely taken its toll and I will be investing in some warmer liners later in the week!  After months of solid office work it feels great to be back into the mountain and synchronising with the natural rhythm of life, having fun and working the body hard.
Trident Couloir ChardonnetTrident Couloir Chardonnet-2 Trident Couloir Chardonnet-3Trident Couloir Chardonnet-4Trident Couloir Chardonnet-5Trident Couloir Chardonnet-6Trident Couloir Chardonnet-7Trident Couloir Chardonnet-8SAMSUNG CSCSAMSUNG CSCSAMSUNG CSCTrident Couloir Chardonnet-10Trident Couloir Chardonnet-9Trident Couloir Chardonnet-12Trident Couloir Chardonnet-11SAMSUNG CSC

Black Crows 2015 Corvus Review

Black Crows Corvus 2015 review-1

A lot of people are starting to ask me what kit I chose and why. Anyone who knows me quickly comes to realise that I am really choosy about kit. The engineer in me looks for a well design product and the realist looks for a product that is robust and won’t let me down. On those big mountain steeps, you will only get away with kit failure if your really lucky and you never know when your luck will run out. Skiing is also a sport about sensations, and skis have to deliver a special combination of power, grip, dampening, agility and stability in just the right amounts to cut it. My skiing developed from an alpine slalom racing background to freeride and big mountain steep skiing. I’m definitely not into lightweight racing kit for ski touring and the chattery feel of those matchsticks. I’d rather put a bit more effort in on the up to be able to blast on the down without the worry of ripping the binding out or snapping a ski.

In the last ten years I have mainly skied Dynastar and Volkl before moving to Black Crows in 2013. I didn’t just move brand because they offered to support me, I went and tried out all their skis at an open day to see how they felt and if they could give me what I am looking for, just as you should. With the progression from cambered Dynastar pro riders to Volkl, Katanas, Kuros then Shiro’s you can see there is a general mix of performance with a growing trend of playfulness and agility. Long gone are the days you chose a big GS ski for stability at the sacrifice of agility, modern skis can do it all.

The Corvus has been Black Crows Sovereign ski since the brands conception, and with each year they have added some extra width to drive the market trend. We chose this ski to take on a 30 day expedition on Baffin Island to ski couloirs and here’s why. I wanted a ski that was reasonably stiff, had tip rocker a for forgiving nature, a classic tail for powering out of turns and edging, and at just over 4 kg for the pair light enough to do 1000 m a day, day in day out. This is a ski that likes to charge, and the harder you push the more impressed would will be with it stability as it shows its calibre. You can ski pow with dustbin lids but when its variable, crusty or firm then you start to appreciate the all round abilities. Its like a Mantra but with an extra 10 mm under foot fun added. It will be equally at home with alpine or touring bindings depending out what you want to do. I rated the ski on the 10 qualities I look for in a ski:

Corvus evaluationBlack Crows Corvus 2015 review Baffin-1Chasing Tom Grant – Ford Wall, Baffin Island

 

 

Baffin Island Film Teaser

In April 2014, Marcus Waring, Michelle Blaydon, Tom Grant and myself travelled to the North East Fiords of Baffin Island which are situated between mainland Canada and Greenland. There we spent 30 days unsupported in the fiords, travelling 240 km using kites and skins and skiing 26 couloirs along the way. Many of the lines were first know descents.

Here is a teaser for our forthcoming film: