Ecrins 2004

The Ecrins is a magical place, big mountains with a remote feel and few people there in winter. Arguably its much better suited to ski touring than Mont Blanc range with a lot more terrain in the 30-40 degree range. In total I spent 2 months there with a road trip south to the beach at Nice through the beautiful provencal village Entrevaux.  
Ecrins 2004-3

Quiet lanes in La GraveEcrins 2004-4

Ice climbing in Vallon de Diable.Ecrins 2004-5 Ecrins 2004-6 Ecrins 2004-7 Ecrins 2004-9

A busy day at La GraveEcrins 2004-11 Ecrins 2004-12 Ecrins 2004-14 Ecrins 2004-15 Ecrins 2004-16

Kiting at Col de LauteretEcrins 2004-17

La GraveEcrins 2004-18

Briancon’s fort.  Ecrins 2004-19Ecrins 2004-20 Ecrins 2004-21 Ecrins 2004-22

The Davin CouloirEcrins 2004-24

Looking up the Davin. Ecrins 2004-26

Sunsets near Dignes les BainsEcrins 2004-27 Ecrins 2004-28 Ecrins 2004-29

The strip at NiceEcrins 2004-30 Ecrins 2004-31 Ecrins 2004-32 Ecrins 2004-33 Ecrins 2004-34 Ecrins 2004-35 Ecrins 2004-36 Ecrins 2004-37

EntrevauxEcrins 2004-38 Ecrins 2004-39 Ecrins 2004-40 Ecrins 2004-41 Ecrins 2004-42

La Meije Ecrins 2004-44 Ecrins 2004-45

Ice in La GraveEcrins 2004-46 Ecrins 2004-47 Ecrins 2004-49 Ecrins 2004-50

Old La GraveEcrins 2004-51 Ecrins 2004-52

Trous de La Mouche – road trip to Les AravisEcrins 2004-53 Ecrins 2004-54 Ecrins 2004-55

Glacier Blanc HutEcrins 2004-56 Ecrins 2004-57 Ecrins 2004-58 Ecrins 2004-59 Ecrins 2004-60 Ecrins 2004-61 Ecrins 2004-62 Ecrins 2004-63

En Route to Domes de Neige des EcrinsEcrins 2004-64 Ecrins 2004-65 Ecrins 2004-66

Ailefroide with its winter coatEcrins 2004-67

Cheeky localsEcrins 2004-69

In the DavinEcrins 2004-71 Ecrins 2004-72 Ecrins 2004-73 Ecrins 2004-74 Ecrins 2004-75 Ecrins 2004-76 Ecrins 2004-77 Traversing Dome MonetierEcrins 2004-78 Ecrins 2004-79 Ecrins 2004-80 Ecrins 2004-81 Ecrins 2004-82 Ecrins 2004-83 Ecrins 2004-84 Ecrins 2004-85 Ecrins 2004-86 Ecrins 2004

Norway 2003

It would appear that Norway has more rock than it knows what to do with so they don’t mind putting a few bolts in. We spent some time around the Stavanger area visiting sports crags like Bersagel & Norland to climb and BBQ with the locals. I was some months into recovering from some Glandular Fever type virus I’d picked up from working in West Africa so chilling out in the sunshine was very welcome. Norway 2003-8Norway 2003-6Norway 2003-7Norway 2003Norway 2003-5Norway 2003-4Norway 2003-2

Return to Rock

After a quick warm up on Mont Oreb’s ‘l’Ete Indiane to get back into things, we spent 3 back to back days last week escaping the 35 degree valley heat on the perfect golden granite on South Face of Midi 3842 m climbing Kolmann (6a+), Contamine (7a) and Jules de Chez Smith (6b). With cooler temperatures this week we were able to hit the fingery Zone at Gietroz and sample some of its impeccable gneiss.20140611_091503 20140613_114605 20140613_095650 20140613_085059 20140613_074230 20140612_103907#1 20140612_102747 20140611_120613 20140611_110814 20140611_110745#1 20140611_110432 20140611_103543 20140611_093837Ramche Hyper-12Ramche Hyper-7

Sunday’s Stroll

Traverse of Noir John Minogue

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Its been a few years since I skied this line and its definitely one that has been significantly affected by glacial thinning making it much harder that the guide book rating of 4.3 Assez Diffcile 45 degrees for 50 m. I went back a month ago to try in in good powder conditions but the East wind was loading over the ridge where the sun meets the shadow in the photo.  As I moved towards the ridge things started to crack around me, propagating up the slope above me and releasing some slab material down onto my companions who were about 50 m behind me. No one fancied manning up to go over the blind convexity so it was time to go home.

With no new snow in Chamonix for weeks, I went back with John Minogue. This route is so blind as you start to ski over the convexity and the only thing you see is the glacier 500 m below. The glacial recession has continued and there is much more exposed rock at the choke where instead of rapping across ice on skis, we rapped over rock on crampons. Its pretty steep too, the glacial death ice is always at the back of your mind, there’s a strip of ice at the base of the route which I had to downclimb, and the crevasses look hungry. Apart from all that the views are amazing and the snow was good.

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Camping Time

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6This week we Dave Searle and myself went back to the Miage Glacier under Mont Blanc’s Himalayan sized West Face with the idea to have a semi-rest day and camp on day 1 and then get and early start and ski a line mid-morning before it got too hot. I had some expedition kit to test out so this provided the perfect opportunity.  Miage Aigle Dave SearleMiage Aigle Dave Searle-2Miage Aigle Dave Searle-3

At the foot of the Miage. We soon got bored of load carrying in the heat and set up camp.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-4

Chilling out in the evening.

Miage Aigle Dave Searle-5My touring set up this season.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6

Dave’s disco tentMiage Aigle Dave Searle-7

Our line for the day on looker’s right

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Dave at the start of the 1100 m bootpackMiage Aigle Dave Searle-10

The shrund was bottomless and we roped upMiage Aigle Dave Searle

Sunrise
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Upwards, on and on.Miage Aigle Dave Searle-13

The snow deteriorated due to being worked by spindrift so we skied the good stuffMiage Aigle Dave Searle-13Miage Aigle Dave Searle-14 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-3Miage Aigle Dave Searle-4Miage Aigle Dave Searle-15Miage Aigle Dave Searle-16 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-5 Miage Aigle Dave Searle-6Miage Aigle Dave Searle-17Miage Aigle Dave Searle-18