The Alpine Trilogy Project – Skiing’s Triple Crown

Its been a busy few weeks here which kicked off after a heavy dump of snow plastered all the faces.  A project had been forming in my mind over the last year which involved skiing and shooting 3 of the biggest, baddest and hardest lines in the Alps. The Matterhorn is perhaps the most well known and iconic mountain in the World. Any time you ask a child to sketch a mountain they draw you the outline of the Matterhorn.  Its East Face is an incredible slab of rock, steep enough to defy logic that snow will stick, and its rarely in condition. The West Face of Mont Blanc was a must, Himalayan in scale, the upper pitch alone is 1200 m of 50º starting at 4810 m, combined with another 1000 m of 45º couloir skiing below. This one had been alluding me since 2009 and in years when you have already been skiing for 7 or 8 months, its tough to hold out through June for it. The obvious choice for final route would have been the Eiger West Face but I’d already done it in 2011 and my interest lies in exploring new places. Having not skied in the Brenva Cirque, the Brenva Spur was the obvious choice. A route steeped in history and coveted by Alpinists in a remote and wild setting. After a mild season with low valley snowfall levels, we would be entering and leaving the Brenva by Col de la Fourche and the Aiguille du Midi rather than being able to ski out to the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

All that remained was getting the right partners with the head, experience, strength and fitness to take on these big days. When we embarked on the project I guessed there was 50% chance of completing it in 5 years. The Brenva fell to us first in a 12 hour day and a few days after we nailed the West Face in a 14 hour day – the last 3 hours without water. Reassessing our chances I now put them at 60% chance of completing the project this season but the long term forecast was showing that temperatures would rocket.  A couple of days later we were off to Zermatt for what would be our only shot at it. And we did it!

Skiing the Trilogy or Triple Crown in a period of ten days days was a full on experience, mentally and physically. The shortest day was the last one at 10 hours, all 3 days were at 4000 m or more, and all were a race against the clock before conditions became dangerous in the heat of the day. A bit like doing 3 iron man races in 10 days? Maybe, but who cares, this was a personal quest to ski and shoot in wild places with my friends.

Finding skiers who have enough energy left for some big pushes at this time of the year can be tough but a big thanks to the ever psyched and super strong guys who joined me at various stages along the way to make this project a massive success: Mikko Heimonen, Jesper Petterson, Tom Grant, Enrico Kareletto Mosetti, Guilhem Martin Saint Leon.Below are a few shots from the trips with the good stuff and full blog post still to come.

Sunset Midi Chamonix Cosmiques Ross Hewitt-1

Sundown from the  Cosmiques Refuge, en route to the West Face with lots of trail breaking to do over Tacul and Maudit.Matterhorn Moon Light Ross Hewitt-1

The Matterhorn East Face under full moon as Mikko Heimonen sets off from camp.Matterhorn Cervin East Face Ski Topo Routes Ross Hewitt-1

The East Face plastered the day we skied it.Mont Blanc West Face Ross Hewitt topo

The West Face of Mont Blanc with our lineBrenva Spur Topo Ross Hewitt-1

The Brenva SpurMatterhorn Cervin East Face Ski  Ross Hewitt-1Heading in the Matterhorn, with low cloud we couldn’t see the line in the upper couloirsSunrise Aiguille du Midi Chamonix France Ross Hewitt-1

The Midi or Mothership at Dawn, the best ski lift in the WorldScreen Shot 2015-05-25 at 11.21.54

POV Shot from the Brenva Spur, Italy under a sea of cloudsMatterhorn Cervin East Face Ski  Ross Hewitt-1-2

55º uppers on the Matterhorn above and below

 

Matterhorn Cervin East Face Ski  Ross Hewitt-2

Screen Shot 2015-06-07 at 16.48.00Some POV on the Matterhorn in a steep section looking towards Zermatt.Matterhorn Cervin East Face Ski  Ross Hewitt-1-3 In the upper central couloir of the Matterhorn
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Me on the Saudan’s West Face line – photo Guilhem Martin Saint Leonbrenva

 

Enrico Karletto Mosetti and Tom Grant on a lush morning on the Brenva Spur

Charlet – Gallet Traverse of Mont Dolent

When my friend Andy Nelson sent me a message to say he was free mid-week and wanted to do something, I knew the exact thing that he would love as a climber and skier. Although we had both started the guide scheme at the same time, Andy and myself had never had the chance to spend any time in the mountains together and I was psyched to get he chance to do an Alpine route with Andy. Andy at http://www.infinitymountainguides.co.uk is one one the most professional , well trained and talented guys I know, in both climbing and skiing disciplines. Along with Andy Townsend and Paul Chidlow they put us to shame during our guides training! Neither of us had climbed for months so something fun rather than technically challenging was the order of the day.  In fact the Charlet-Gallet traverse of Mt Dolent had been on the list for some time and as an intensive period of spring skiing was coming to an end, my friend Emily Roo had jogged my memory at the perfect time. Neither of us had been on the mountain before or had read anything about it so it would be a little adventure.

The route should have been straightforward but after about 200 m we were both weighing up the decision to continue or rappel off. Under a bombardment of rockfall I had seconded up to Andy with my head down below my skis to collect the gear while he looked down wincing as football sized boulders narrowly missed decapitating me. As I reached Andy he dropped the gear down the rope and I climbed as fast as I could and kept going until we broke out left onto the ramp. Now clear of the rockfall we were able to relax a bit and it was Andy’s turn to wade up steep faceted mank to the headwall. Much to my horror he took a belay there and it was my turn to experience some deep facets over rock while looking desperately for a rock anchor amongst the shattered weetabix. I was pretty relieved to reach the col and some sound spikes where I chilled out and took in the view down the Argentiere basin.

A quick traverse to the rimaye under the North Face and we were able to put our skis on and descend the exposed Gallet ridge. Just before flipping the ridge we had to change to crampons for a 10 m section of ice on the traverse but we were back on skis on the crest of the ridge with the pub beckoning. All that separated us from the pub at La Foully was a 1500 m 10 minute meadow skip down the glacier right? Wrong, its pretty complicated crevasse territory and difficult to read onsight. And did I mentioned the 2 inch crust? Holy Jesus it just about ripped my face off when it caught me unawares, once minute supporting you, the next trying to eat you.

Anyways we made it to the bar. 1.5 hours later. The bar maid started to treat me like a local as I had been skiing so many routes to there and soon had 2 pints of ‘red’ on the table for each of us. ‘Service’ as they say in Switzerland.

Ross Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-1The shrund went easily after resculpting it to be ski friendly20150415_122235 20150415_122649

When the first incoming rock exploded on that rib on the left I nearly shat myselfRoss Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-2Climbing fast while salvoes of rock zinged pastRoss Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-3

This is John McCune’s Poopy Pants traverse – see his topo below. He was soloing over sugar coated slabs and I was under fire from rock fall so have no recollection of it as I was maxed out trying to go as fast as possible. poop pants20150415_141918 Andy and all the classic ski lines of the Argentiere basin in behind20150415_141921 Taking a breather now we are out of the rock fall zone. Pierre Tardivel skied to this spot in his ski descent in the late 90s.20150415_145610 Ross Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-4Ross Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-5Faceted death mank, my favourite especially combined with the weetabix rock. I guess some Alpine rock experience in New Zealand didn’t go to waste.Ross Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-420150415_160851Andy nearly as excited as me to get off the 60 degree sugar coated rock.

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The final ridgeRoss Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-6 Under the summit shrund about to skiRoss Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-7 Ross Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-8 On the Galley above and about to put skis on below after traversing onto the ridge crestRoss Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-9 Ross Hewitt Mont Dolent Traverse-10

Beer time. Last look at that weird rock formation above La Foully

 

 

Grands Perron – Ballade des Gens Heureux or Shiny Happy People

Our last trip out was to the Grand Perron and the classic Shiny Happy People. Its a great time of year to head up there picking myrtille berries along the way and admiring the views of the Chardonnet and La Verte. The 7 pitch route is bolted throughout (spaced on easy ground) and generally slabby on sound rock and little vegetation. The exception is the 6a+ 4th pitch which goes diagonally through some steeper ground so be prepared to start pulling! The summit holds a commanding position to hang out over the dam and its turquoise waters.Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-3Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-4Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-5Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-6Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-7Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-8Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-9Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-10Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-11Miollet Grand Perron Michelle Blaydon-12

Rock Climbing at Foron

For some reason its been about 7 years since I visited Foron crag, which is a shame because the steep featured limestone is a real joy to climb set against a backdrop of rural French hill farms. The Brits have nicknamed the crag ‘forearms’ as they will always come away worked over. Its was great fun to climb with fellow Berghaus team mates Philippe and Anna Gatta for the first time who beasted me into the ground – its been a couple of years since I pulled down hard enough to operate consistently in the 7s throughout the whole day – I love it though, only one way to get stronger! Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-2Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-1 Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-10

Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-9 Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-8

Philippe cruising 7C on 1st redpoint.Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-7 Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-5

Voyage – A long 7b that traverses the lip of the steep upper cragForon Anna Philippe Gatta-4 Foron Anna Philippe Gatta-3